16 June 2019, Sunday
So that’s it for Bran Castle. What a let-down. Then we were off to the town of Braşov. The German Saxons played a decisive role in Brașov's development. They were mainly involved in trade and crafts. Besides the Saxon population living in the walled city and in the northern suburbs, Brașov also had a significant Romanian and Bulgarian population (living in the Schei district), and also some Hungarian population (living in the Blumăna district).
We were dropped off at the main square of the city, the city centre marked by the mayor’s former office building (Casa Sfatului). Here we had a hurried lunch (because lunch was served late and we had 1 hour before meeting up with the rest of the group - I don’t understand why the restaurant was so busy at 5 p.m.!), I had salty chicken with polenta. It was actually delicious, grilled chicken in a clear soup like concoction with polenta but I couldn’t really savour it as we had to rush off. And the house beer, of course.
After lunch, our guide took us for a short walk around town. First we saw the Black Church, which is a Gothic style church and the biggest church in Romania for now. It has the biggest bell in Romania weighing 6 tons, and the biggest organ in Romania with 4,400 pipes! It was built by the German Saxon community and was originally a Catholic Church known as the Church of Saint Mary, but is now a Lutheran Church. Its construction began during the late 14th century, probably between 1383 and 1385, employing mainly Bulgarian workers who then founded the largely Bulgarian populated town of Schei.
According to popular legend, a German child was disturbing the Bulgarian builders or told them that one of the walls was leaning. An annoyed Bulgarian pushed the child off the church tower and then immured his corpse in the church to conceal his crime.
In 1689, a great fire destroyed the walled city almost entirely, including the Church. Its rebuilding lasted several decades. When the Church was burning in the flames, black smoke could be seen all around the Church, and from then it was called the Black Church.
Next, to Rope Street or String Street which was originally built as an access passage for firefighters, probably some time in the 17th century. It is the narrowest street in Romania and the 3rd narrowest street in Europe. Then to see part of the original city wall. Nearby there was a shop that looked like a tavern, with a picture of a girl named Catherine hanging outside. According to our guide, she was Vlad the Impaler’s mistress; he wanted to divorce his wife but was not allowed to do so by the Pope. They were together for 16 years and had 5 children. So I guess he wasn’t such a cruel man after all, at least he was capable of loving a woman. See? Two sides to a story.
Then to the location of the original city gates, now rebuilt. Inside the gates were the German Saxons, outside were Romanians. Next, to Catherine’s Gate (nothing to do with Vlad’s mistress), built in 1559. It used to be St Catherine’s Monastery before that and derives its name from there. It was the only access towards the suburb of Schei, and used to be protected by wet moats and ponds. The roof is surrounded by 4 round turrets (symbols of the jus gladii, the authorities of the City). It is built in the Renaissance style in Transylvanian architecture. The Brasov Coat of Arms is carved on the facade together with the year of its construction: 1559.
Lastly a Roman Catholic Church built between 1776-1782 on the site of an older Basilica. It is built in baroque architecture with stained glass windows. And that was the end of the tour.
The drive back would be about 3 plus hours and by the time we arrived back in Bucharest it was almost 10 p.m.! As I mentioned before, it is summer now and the sun is unforgivingly hot. I love hot weather but walking around under the hot sun the whole day is a different ball game altogether. I’ve become darker than I already am with the result that more and more people are guess that I’m from Africa, which sometimes annoys me and sometimes amuses me. One Greek old lady on the tour asked me whether I’m from Nigeria - LOL. I actually like to keep them guessing, because I think while they’re busy doing that at least they’re not picking my pockets or robbing me. Who would’ve thought. My skin is my safety measure.
When we arrived in Bucharest, as usual we bought some groceries for yet another LONG journey tomorrow and then back to the hostel. As much as we were tired, we did some research and bookings for our next places to stay. Everything is sort of done and as usual, it’s a mixed feeling of happiness and sadness knowing that my journey is coming to an end soon.
Whatever it is, I need to re-read Bram Stoker’s Dracula once I get home!
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