Europe 2019 - Day 35 (Part 2)

10 June 2019, Monday

Then the ‘Lucian Blaga’ National Theatre and the Romanian National Opera House. It is a national heritage built between 1904-1905 in neo-Baroque and secessionist styles. The 2 institutions were established in 1919 and are the most important in Transylvania and among the most prestigious in Romania. 

Then to the Metropolitan Orthodox Cathedral, or the Assumption of the Holy Mother of God which was built between 1923-1933 in neo-Byzantine style with Romanian features. I saw what I thought was the Court of Appeal (Curtea del Apel) in a pretty pink colour building. A pink Court of Appeal! Somehow the colour pink seems to contradict the severity and gravity of the role of a Court of Appeal. But it’s funky though. There were other interesting looking buildings around here, including the Library and the Cluj County Prefecture building.

In front of the Metropolitan Orthodox Cathedral was the statue of Avram Iancu. Avram Iancu (1824-1874) was a Transylvanian Romanian lawyer who played an important role in the local chapter of the Austrian Empire Revolutions of 1848–1849, where he fought for the peasants against serfdom. He was especially active in the Tara Motilor and Apuseni Mountains regions, which earned him the moniker Crăișorul Munților("The Little Prince of the Mountains").

In fact, this entire place (the National Theatre and Romanian Opera, the Metropolitan Orthodox Church, the Court) has come to be known as the Avram Iancu Square - a spiritual, administrative and judicial centre of the city, built in the early 20th century. There was another monument at the back of the Cathedral with the words “Glorie Ostasului Roman”. I’ve no idea what this means. 

Then to the Monument of Michael the Brave (remember him - the de facto ruler of unified Romania in 1600?) on a horse. He is considered as one of Romania's greatest national heroes. Then to Citadel Park, also known as Fortress Hill, situated at an altitude of 405 metres. A Vauban fortress was built here between 1715-1735 by the Austrians to house their administrative headquarters, the garrison and the armoury. The fortress was a symbol of control but was also used as a prison, especially during the 1848 Austrian Empire Revolution. Here we had a panoramic view of the city. 

We could see Cluj Arena in the distance, a stadium with futurist architecture. This is the venue for the largest sports and cultural events in Transylvania. It was built in 2011 and is one of the most impressive and modern stadiums in Romania, having a 30,000 seat capacity for sports events and a 55,000 seat capacity for concerts. Then down the hill and across a small bridge named Elisabeth Bridge. There is an Anti-Communist Resistance Monument here, and also another opera theatre called Maghiara. 

Then lunch in a restaurant recommended by the tourist information centre. We had sour cherry brandy (on the house), Cluj beer (I had Hophead Immigrant and my friend had Hophead Opium) and food was typical Romanian dishes such as stuffed cabbage, pork sausages, pork crackling, potatoes and polenta with bacon. Nice but not my cup of tea.

Then back again to Urinii Square (we were trying to do a whole round of Cluj-Napoca and return to where we started, hence the overlap in places), to Palatul Banffy or Banffy Palace, now the Museum of Art. It is a Baroque establishment from Transylvania, built between 1774-1785 by a German architect. The Art Museum was established here in 1951 and since 1956 it is located in the Banffy Palace.