Europe 2019 - Day 22

28 May 2019, Tuesday

For breakfast I tried my herring in oil (with chillies). It’s actually not that bad, if not a bit pickled-tasting and oily. And then we set off.

Our fist destination was the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews. This museum is dedicated to restoring the memory of the 1000-year history of Polish Jews from the Middle Ages to modern times. Nearby was the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes. This monument was created shortly after WW II to commemorate those who fought and died in the Warsaw Ghetto. The Warsaw Ghetto was the largest of all the Jewish ghettos is German occupied Europe during WW II. From the Warsaw Ghetto, Jews were deported to Nazi concentration camps and mass-killing centers. The ghetto was demolished by the Germans in May 1943 after the Warsaw Ghetto Uprisings. Altogether, there were about 300,000 Jews executed and about 92,000 more who died of hunger, disease, malnutrition, etc. In 1970, the German Chancellor Willy Brandt knelt before this monument in apology for the crimes committed by the Third Reich. 

Next, to the Museum of Warsaw, but before that we encountered a square with a church and some monuments. The square once housed the national theatre where Chopin performed twice before in 1830 - Concerto in F Minor and Concerto in E Minor. The monuments are in commemoration of those who fought against German occupation in the Warsaw Uprising in 1944. Then, we saw some fortifications known as the Barbican. This is a semicircular fortified outpost in Warsaw, and one of the few remaining relics of the complex network of historic fortifications that once encircled Warsaw. It was erected around 1540 but was destroyed during WW II and rebuilt thereafter.

Then to the Museum of Warsaw, which was just at the corner of Old Town. The Old Town of Warsaw was also almost completely destroyed during WW II and was painstakingly rebuilt after the war by the people of Warsaw based in part on the paintings of one Canaletto, using the original bricks where possible. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is dotted with colourful houses and narrow cobbled streets. The Old Town Square is full of restaurants and souvenir shops, with a Mermaid Statue. As it was a hot day, we stopped to have some ice cream - I had chocolate and pistachio flavour. 

Walking along the streets in Old Town we saw the 14th century St John’s Archcathedral - the place of coronations and marriages of Polish rulers. We also saw a Jesuit Church and St Martin’s Church. Then the Royal Castle which is the seat of Polish rulers from the 16th century. I bought some souvenirs (fridge magnets, of course). In the distance we could see the PGE National Stadium. A short walk and we were at the column commemorating King Sigismund III Vasa, who in 1596 moved Poland’s capital from Krakow to Warsaw. It is the oldest secular monument in Warsaw and stands at about 22 metres high. Lastly, we saw the Monument of the Little Insurgent, which is in commemoration of the child soldiers who fought and died during the Warsaw Uprising of 1944. In effect, Old Town is symbolic of Warsaw’s rise from the ruins of WW II. 

Then we went to the Palace of Culture and Science. This is the tallest building in Poland at 231 metres and is a modern icon of the city. It contains theatres, a cinema and museums. It was originally commissioned by Stalin, and takes its inspiration from the Empire State Building. Next, to the Fryderyk Chopin Museum. Unfortunately it started raining so we took refuge at a restaurant to have lunch. I had pierogi with duck filling and cranberry sauce, and beer while my friend had the tripe soup.

We had one last place to go, but we were contemplating whether to go back to the hostel for a while and let the rain pass or soldier on, when the rain seemed to stop and the sun bashfully spread tiny rays across the sky. We took the chance and made our way to Lazienki Park. This is a park with palaces, gardens, an orangery, an amphitheater and a Chinese garden. The name Lazienki means ‘baths’ and is derived from the park’s centrepiece, the Palace on the Island, which displays paintings from the collection of King Stanislaw August Poniatowski. Here I saw 2 squirrels with barely any fur on their tails, and a peacock in all its glory.

We were done by 6 p.m. and went back to the hostel as it was raining quite heavily. I was soaked. My friend cooked for herself rice and curry while I ate potato chips as I wasn’t really hungry thanks to the pierogi but just feeling peckish. I updated my blog, did some reading, shower and sleep. Tomorrow is another early day to catch the bus to Lida, Belarus. 

In the middle of the night my friend woke me up in a panic saying we can’t go to Belarus as we need a visa. But I checked. No visa required. So I just dismissed her and went back to sleep but had dreams of being stopped at the border, deported, etc.