Europe 2019 - Day 23

29 May 2019, Wednesday 

It was really a problem. We can’t go to Belarus. It is visa free for Malaysians, but only if you go through Minsk airport. If you go by land (which was our mode of transport), we would need a visa. I still can’t accept the imbecility of this situation. No visa by flight, visa required by land. What’s the rationale for this please. Either visa or no visa for the whole country whichever point of entry. This really doesn’t make any sense to me at all.

Leaving that aside, we had a real problem because we were to spend 2 nights in Lida before we come back to Warsaw and head to Krakow, but now we have nowhere to go. So we decided to go to Gdansk in Poland to see a castle that was on my list of things to see - the Malbork Castle. In the morning we quickly booked a hostel to stay in Gdansk and figured out how to get to Gdansk - by train. Also we had to cancel our bus (50% refund) and hostel (no payment thank God) in Lida. That done, I cooked eggs for breakfast and leisurely packed because suddenly, we had all the time in the world!

Then to the train station where we bought 2 return tickets for 600 zloty (that’s the local currency in Poland) which was way more expensive than what we anticipated. But it’s ok. We averted a potential crisis. We are safe. That’s the most important thing. I think. 

We arrived in Gdansk at about 3 p.m. and made our way to our hostel. Then, armed with a map of Gdansk town and the interesting places to see, we headed out to explore Gdansk. Gdansk, or Danzig in German, is a port city and Poland’s principal seaport. First we went to the Monument of the Fallen Shipyard Workers of 1970. This monument was unveiled on 16 December 1980 near the entrance to what was then the Lenin Shipyard. It is to commemorate the 42 or more people killed during the Coastal cities events; i.e. the Polish protests of 1970 (also known as Black Thursday) which was sparked by a sudden increase of prices of food and other everyday items, which lead to widespread strikes that were put down by the Polish People’s Army, which led to the death of these 42 people. 

Next to the Monument was the Gdansk Shipyard, an European Heritage Site because of the significant role it has played in the history and culture of Europe - it was the birthplace of ‘Solidarity’, a social movement and trade union that fought for democracy, freedom and human rights. From there we passed by the Church of St James, the former St Peter Real School, the Church of St Bartholomew (originally built in 1370-1380), the Gdansk library, the Hala Targowa (markethall or Long Market), the Piwnica Romanska Museum, the Gdansk Museum and another Church known as the SW Barbary. 

Then we went to Gradowa Hill to have a panoramic view of the town of Gdansk. Then to St Bridget’s Church, a beautiful and huge Roman Catholic Church founded over 700 years ago; it has a statue of Pope John Paul II outside - as I mentioned earlier, he was from Krakow, Poland and is revered here in Poland. Then to the Grand Armoury, a building of Renaissance architecture erected in 1660 on the medieval line of the city walls, and used as a working arsenal to store weapons and armoury until 1800. Then the Mariacki Church or St Mary’s Church, another beautiful church with roots as long ago as 1379, and to the town square where there was the fountain of Neptune. Here we were in the heart of Old Town Gdansk and in the heart of the tourist area. 

Lastly, to the Crane, which was a former port crane. It used to be the biggest port crane in medieval Europe. Today it is a museum. This was close to the sea side which explains the cold wind, I think. The weather here is really confusing. It is sunny but the wind is so cold! I can’t seem to make sense of these two conflicting elements. Here we tried a traditional local dish called oscypek which is grilled smoked cheese with cranberry sauce, sold by a street vendor. Quite nice although I never tasted anything like it before. 

We must have passed by the main train station in Gdansk 4 times today (excluding the time we actually arrived there at 3 p.m. It is a really small town. The train station in itself was an architectural beauty. Nearby there was a sculpture of some school children by Frank Meisler (2009) which is dedicated to the Jewish children in Gdansk who were rescued from German Nazi persecution by leaving for Britain without their parents so their lives could be saved.

Then we stopped for some groceries and finally went back to the hostel. My friend made tom yam soup with noodles and we ate that with beer (I tried another Polish brand called Harnas - a bit too bitter for my liking). A very satisfying meal, I must say. The thing I always miss most about Malaysia when I go travelling is the food. And that is why, I think, I will never leave Malaysia. Because of the food. 

Europe 2019 - Day 22

28 May 2019, Tuesday

For breakfast I tried my herring in oil (with chillies). It’s actually not that bad, if not a bit pickled-tasting and oily. And then we set off.

Our fist destination was the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews. This museum is dedicated to restoring the memory of the 1000-year history of Polish Jews from the Middle Ages to modern times. Nearby was the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes. This monument was created shortly after WW II to commemorate those who fought and died in the Warsaw Ghetto. The Warsaw Ghetto was the largest of all the Jewish ghettos is German occupied Europe during WW II. From the Warsaw Ghetto, Jews were deported to Nazi concentration camps and mass-killing centers. The ghetto was demolished by the Germans in May 1943 after the Warsaw Ghetto Uprisings. Altogether, there were about 300,000 Jews executed and about 92,000 more who died of hunger, disease, malnutrition, etc. In 1970, the German Chancellor Willy Brandt knelt before this monument in apology for the crimes committed by the Third Reich. 

Next, to the Museum of Warsaw, but before that we encountered a square with a church and some monuments. The square once housed the national theatre where Chopin performed twice before in 1830 - Concerto in F Minor and Concerto in E Minor. The monuments are in commemoration of those who fought against German occupation in the Warsaw Uprising in 1944. Then, we saw some fortifications known as the Barbican. This is a semicircular fortified outpost in Warsaw, and one of the few remaining relics of the complex network of historic fortifications that once encircled Warsaw. It was erected around 1540 but was destroyed during WW II and rebuilt thereafter.

Then to the Museum of Warsaw, which was just at the corner of Old Town. The Old Town of Warsaw was also almost completely destroyed during WW II and was painstakingly rebuilt after the war by the people of Warsaw based in part on the paintings of one Canaletto, using the original bricks where possible. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is dotted with colourful houses and narrow cobbled streets. The Old Town Square is full of restaurants and souvenir shops, with a Mermaid Statue. As it was a hot day, we stopped to have some ice cream - I had chocolate and pistachio flavour. 

Walking along the streets in Old Town we saw the 14th century St John’s Archcathedral - the place of coronations and marriages of Polish rulers. We also saw a Jesuit Church and St Martin’s Church. Then the Royal Castle which is the seat of Polish rulers from the 16th century. I bought some souvenirs (fridge magnets, of course). In the distance we could see the PGE National Stadium. A short walk and we were at the column commemorating King Sigismund III Vasa, who in 1596 moved Poland’s capital from Krakow to Warsaw. It is the oldest secular monument in Warsaw and stands at about 22 metres high. Lastly, we saw the Monument of the Little Insurgent, which is in commemoration of the child soldiers who fought and died during the Warsaw Uprising of 1944. In effect, Old Town is symbolic of Warsaw’s rise from the ruins of WW II. 

Then we went to the Palace of Culture and Science. This is the tallest building in Poland at 231 metres and is a modern icon of the city. It contains theatres, a cinema and museums. It was originally commissioned by Stalin, and takes its inspiration from the Empire State Building. Next, to the Fryderyk Chopin Museum. Unfortunately it started raining so we took refuge at a restaurant to have lunch. I had pierogi with duck filling and cranberry sauce, and beer while my friend had the tripe soup.

We had one last place to go, but we were contemplating whether to go back to the hostel for a while and let the rain pass or soldier on, when the rain seemed to stop and the sun bashfully spread tiny rays across the sky. We took the chance and made our way to Lazienki Park. This is a park with palaces, gardens, an orangery, an amphitheater and a Chinese garden. The name Lazienki means ‘baths’ and is derived from the park’s centrepiece, the Palace on the Island, which displays paintings from the collection of King Stanislaw August Poniatowski. Here I saw 2 squirrels with barely any fur on their tails, and a peacock in all its glory.

We were done by 6 p.m. and went back to the hostel as it was raining quite heavily. I was soaked. My friend cooked for herself rice and curry while I ate potato chips as I wasn’t really hungry thanks to the pierogi but just feeling peckish. I updated my blog, did some reading, shower and sleep. Tomorrow is another early day to catch the bus to Lida, Belarus. 

In the middle of the night my friend woke me up in a panic saying we can’t go to Belarus as we need a visa. But I checked. No visa required. So I just dismissed her and went back to sleep but had dreams of being stopped at the border, deported, etc.

Europe 2019 - Day 21

27 May 2019, Monday

Another travelling day! 

A funny thing happened today. We had to wake up early to catch the bus at 9 a.m. so I put my alarm for 6.30 a.m. but I was waking up off and on anyway I dunno why. So when my alarm rang I was already half awake and I shut it off pretty fast. But the American boy woke up in a fright wondering what the sound was. But since I had already shut it off I just kept really quiet and pretended as if nothing happened. It took him a while to go back to sleep and only then did I wake up. He must’ve really gotten a shock!

Yes I know, poor thing but what can I do? This is what happens when you stay at dorms and different people have to wake up at different times. Anyway, we packed our stuff (I now have a third bag full of souvenirs - roll eyes), checked out of the hostel and went to the bus station to take the bus to Warsaw, Poland. It was a journey of about 9 hours!

We arrived at about 6 p.m. and found our way to our apartment. Then we walked around and I tried the local draught beer (zywiec) and ‘pierogi’ which is like a dumpling with filling both savoury and sweet (I tried the cheese and potato filling as the meat filling had beef). This is supposed to be one of Poland’s traditional food. 

Poland’s history is quite sad. During WW II, Poland was attacked relentlessly by Nazi Germany as well as by the Soviet Union. Poland had the largest Jewish population in the world at over 3 million, 90% of whom were murdered by the Nazis. There were 6 Nazi concentration camps located in Poland; Auschwitz being the most well known (which I intend to visit soon). After the war, Poland was put under Soviet’s sphere of influence and was sort of a communist state, although its population was largely Roman Catholic. In 1978, the then archbishop of Krakow was elected as Pope of the Roman Catholic Church, taking the name John Paul II. Communism was finally rid from Poland in 1989 when elections were held, and is now a democratic parliamentary republic.

I would describe it as a developing country, it is much cleaner and more organised than its more developed counterparts such as France or Germany. Comparable to Malaysia, except that the people here are very homogenous - there are hardly any people of colour here and as a result, I get quite a lot of stares. Not the complimentary kind. But don’t get me wrong. The people here are very nice, polite and friendly. 

The weather was lovely, nice and sunny although it rained in the evening after our dinner. We bought some groceries for breakfast tomorrow. I bought herring in oil, another traditional dish here in Poland, but I bought the one with chillies. But of course! The original version looks a bit scary - like raw herring with salt and oil. We’ll see what happens tomorrow. By the way, the Europeans’ idea of spicy is really not spicy at all for me. Then we did some research on the other countries we are to visit, shower and sleep. 

Europe 2019 - Day 20 (Part 2)

26 May 2019, Sunday

And then we were done. It took longer than I anticipated but it’s hard to ignore the stories of the persecuted. It’s as if their souls are still restless and beckon you to hear their tales of sorrow and suffering. One of the prisoners here, Franz Balhourn, in his diary entry for 16 December 1940, wrote this heart-wrenching entry:

“Above the gaping gateway in the sinister grey building, thick black letters announce:  Sachsenhausen Protective Custody Camp. White lettering in the iron gate proclaims: Work brings freedom. Behind us, somebody whispers: ‘Yes, in crematorium number three.’ “

To go back, we had to walk 1.7 km to the nearest train station. As if we didn’t do enough walking today, we decided to visit another town called Potsdam which is also outside Berlin. Potsdam is the capital of the state of Brandenburg, just next to Berlin. Not a single bomb fell into the city until April 1945, and then the whole place was wiped out with bombs in a single attack but fortunately, the 18th century palaces survived. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

We walked through a beautiful, gorgeous park called Sanssouci Park which contained palace buildings, architectural structures and gardens from diverse epochs. It’s garden designs began in the 18th century and was continually developed until the end of the monarchy in 1918. First we saw the Kaiser Station, which was built for Wilhelm II (1859-1941), the last German Emperor and King of Prussia, and was opened in 1909. 

Then to Neues Palais or New Palace. The building was begun in 1763, after the end of the Seven Years’ War under Frederick II and was completed in 1769. It is considered to be the last great Prussian Baroque palace. Then to a building called 

Drachenhaus (Dragon House) which was built about 1770-1772 and is designed to imitate a Chinese pagoda. The Dragon House is named after the sixteen dragons on the corners of its concave roofs. It was built on an octagonal plan, with four floors not only to be decorative, but also as living quarters for the wine-growers who worked on the neighbouring Weinberg. However, they did not move into the pagoda. It is now a restaurant. Just beside it was another building called Belvedere auf dem Klausberg but this was covered by a wall so I had to do some minor climbing to take a picture.

Then to Chinesisches or Chinese House which is a pavilion, Orangerieschloss or Orangery Palace which was built on the behest of King Friedrich Wilhelm IV of Prussia from 1851 to 1864, and to the New Chambers which had a windmill-like appearance.

Finally the Schloss Sanssouci or Sanssouci Palace with its trademark vineyard terraces - certainly a splendid and soothing sight for the eyes. It was built in 1744 as the summer residence of Frederick II. The entire park has beautiful flower gardens, lawns, flower beds, hedges and luscious trees. In the hedge quarter 3,000 fruit trees were planted. The greenhouses of the numerous nurseries contained oranges, melons, peaches and bananas. As we were leaving, we saw the goddesses Flora and Pomona who decorate the entrance obelisk (originally built in 1748). They were placed there to highlight the connection of a flower, fruit and vegetable garden.

And then we were finally done. It was 9 p.m. by the time we got back to the hostel but we still managed to buy some food and beer and were eating in the kitchen and I had a chat with the security guard at the hostel who is a refugee from Syria (Syria! A place I must visit - but not now) and who stayed in Malaysia for 6 months. 

Our Colombian room mates moved out this morning so I shifted to the downstairs bed. We had a new room mate - a young boy from California. He asked for suggestions on where to go and I gave him our map which had all the important tourist locations marked out. Then shower and sleep.

Europe 2019 - Day 20 (Part 1)

26 May 2019, Sunday

Since we had already finished exploring the important sites in Berlin, we decided to venture out of Berlin today. I would say that most of the sights in Berlin had to do with Nazis and the Wall. So as my friend observed, in a weird way they have Hitler to thank for tourism in Berlin today; otherwise there will be nothing to see here.

We first went to a concentration camp in Sachsenhausen. This is situated quite far away and we had to take several trains and a bus to reach our destination. The camp was also like an open air museum, and was the actual site of the concentration camp which was in operation from 1936 to about 1945 with some remnants of the old camp still there, including an old oven for cooking in the infirmary, and a cold room with meat hooks in the kitchen for storing meat. 

It was built in the summer of 1936 by prison labour after the appointment of Heinrich Himmler as Chief of the German Police in July 1936. More than 200,000 people were imprisoned here between 1936-1945, first consisting of political opponents and prisoners of war (POWs) from Russia, Czech, the Netherlands etc. Soon they were joined in ever-increasing numbers by members of groups defined by the National Socialist ideology as racially and biologically inferior such as Jews, gypsies and homosexuals. Many died of starvation, disease, forced labour, maltreatment or outright murder. Others died on death marches after the evacuation of the camp. About 3,000 sick prisoners were left behind in the camp and were liberated by Soviet and Polish troops in April 1945. 

From the entrance we walked along Camp Street. This is the street where prisoners had to walk to enter the camp; it separates the Concentration Camp Command Headquarters and the Prisoners’ Camp from the grounds of the SS Troop Camp. The latter included military barracks, where camp guards were trained and housed. Then the entrance to Command HQ and the Prisoners’ Camp. “Abandon hope, all ye who enters here” is a phrase that came to mind.

Then the Command HQ which used to contain offices, accommodation and a casino for about 100-250 SS command staff. Then the Commandant’s House where mass murder operations were discussed and planned (sickening). Then the entrance to the Prisoners’ Camp or Tower A or the Protective Custody Camp. It was built in 1936 by the prisoners of the camp itself. Here the personnel had direct power over the prisoners and were systematically abused, tortured and some even murdered. From here you can see the roll call area, where sometimes the prisoners were made to stand for hours in the cold until some died and some suffered frostbite. 

Then the shoe testing track which had a variety of surfaces; the prisoners in the punishment squad had to march round it endlessly to test leather substitutes for the German shoe industry. Then Barracks 38 and 39 which were solely for Jewish prisoners, and the prisoners camp for other prisoners. Then the prison within the concentration camp for infringements of camp discipline, a place of secrecy, torment and murder. The Site of the Gallows is a place where prisoners were executed in front of their comrades assembled in the roll call area, as a deterrent. At Christmas, the SS had a Christmas tree put up there.

Then the infirmary barracks, which was not only a hospital for the sick, but also a place which carried out medical horrors on the prisoners such as forced sterilisation or castration, and all sorts of chemical testing such as mustard gas poisoning. 

Then there was the prisoners’ laundry room, kitchen, an obelisk (about 40 meters high) as a symbol of the Sachsenhausen National Memorial (opened in 1961), the execution trench where resistance fighters and people sentenced by the Nazi Special Courts were executed, a burial ground (trenches) with ashes of the victims of the concentration camp, a site for the commemoration of the victims of the concentration camp, industrial yard where the prisoners were forced to work, and the crematorium where the victims who died were cremated. The latter was also known as Station Z (the last alphabet and therefore the last ‘station’ of your life). Apart from 4 fixed cremation ovens, there were also a gas chamber and a firing squad execution area. 

Lastly the T-building that between 1938 and 1945, housed the administrative headquarters of the entire concentration camp system. The men who sat behind desks in these offices determined the conditions of imprisonment, coordinated forced labour and organised mass murder. You should see their photographs. They look normal. But I cannot imagine how any normal person could carry out such horrendous acts of brutality. And it’s difficult not to feel hatred towards them knowing what they had done.

Europe 2019 - Day 19

25 May 2019, Saturday

Woke up about 8 a.m., showered and went out. Had breakfast (cappuccino and croissant) at a cafe across the street and we were on our way.

First, to the farthest destination which is the Olympic Stadium of Berlin. This is a stadium built in 1934-1936 with a maximum capacity of 100,000. The special thing about this place is that it is a legacy of Nazi architecture. Of course, it was renovated over the years, most notably for the football world cups in 1974 and 2006 which gave it a roof and reduced its capacity to 74,400.

Then to Potsdamer Platz to see Weinhaus Huth, which, apart from the wall, was the only structure left in the entire area after the Cold War. 2 big corporations were allowed to re-invent the area: Sony and Daimler-Benz. Europe’s first ever traffic light was installed in this area. Today there is only a replica, but it looked cute kind of like a lighthouse for land.

Then to Checkpoint Charlie but before that, a bratwurst (German sausage) for lunch.  On the way to Checkpoint Charlie we happened upon a building which used to be the Prussian House of Representatives from 1904 (building started in 1898) to 1918. Since 1993, it is the seat of the parliament of Berlin. We also stumbled upon the Berlin Wall Memorial, something like an open air museum with pictures and information about the wall. It was a bit disgusting to read. I really cannot understand how normal people can suddenly believe in the words of one man who declares that certain people are genetically inferior (Jews, coloureds, the sick, homosexuals to name a few) and have to be annihilated. Not only believe but actually carry out the killings! Madness? Stupidity? I will never know. 

The Berlin Wall became an international symbol of the division of Germany after WWII, and also of the Cold War between East and West. After WWII, Berlin was divided into 4 sectors and jointly governed by the victorious Allied powers. However, persistent conflicts between the allies led to Berlin being split in 1948, into the Federal Republic of Germany in the west and the German Democratic Republic (GDR) in the east. The 2 states dealt with its Nazi past in different ways. East Germany regarded itself as the “better Germany” where there were supposedly no Nazi perpetrators. It rejected any responsibility for Nazi crimes, and was to all intents and purposes more of a communist regime.

The construction of the Berlin Wall began on 13 August 1961 by the government of GDR. It is a 150 km long barrier to seal off East Berlin and the rest of the territory of the GDR. The Wall can roughly be divided into 2 parts; a “front wall” and a “hinterland wall”, an inner track with a patrol path, watchtowers and barrier fortifications. By 1989, 136 people had lost their lives at the Wall, 98 of them while trying to flee. Reforms in the Soviet Union and growing protests in the GDR led to the peaceful “fall” of the Wall on 9 November 1989. Germany was reunified in 1990.

I guess history has proven that walls do not work. And yet. 

And then to Checkpoint Charlie. This is a checkpoint allocated to foreigners and members of the Allied forces after 13 August 1961. From there we passed the Holocaust Memorial, or the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe consisting of 2,711 stone slabs to commemorate the 6 million Jews murdered in Europe. Then to the Brandenburger Tor or the Brandenburg Gate. This was built between 1789 and 1791 and is the last remaining gate of a total of 14 in the former city and used to be controlled by guards. Apparently in 1806, Napoleon marched into Berlin through this gate following his victory over the Prussian army. The Wall was also just in front of it.

Nearby was a place called Platz des 18 Marz, named for 18 March 1848 to mark the birth of democratic parliamentarianism in Germany. There was a revolution in 1848 to protest against hard times under the Prussian monarch. It is a place to commemorate freedom fighters and a symbol of freedom and democracy. Then to Reichstag, Germany’s Parliament. 

Then to Unter Den Linden, a place of embassies, posh hotels, government buildings, the Humboldt University, the state opera and a place called Bebelplatz, the square where Nazis first burned books on 10 May 1933. Here I bought 2 used books for 5 Euros. At least now I won’t be so bored on the bus and can read before sleeping as I always do. 

Then to Fernsehturm or the TV Tower, the tallest structure in Berlin. On the way we stopped at a place where there was the City Hall building (quite pretty), a Neptune fountain, and St Mary’s Church which was built in the 13th century, and is still in use today. Near here there was a statue of Martin Luther, who started the Reformation some time in 1517 (to reform the Roman Catholic Church). Martin Luther also translated the bible into German, which formed the basis for the standardisation of the German language. 

Then to the Memorial and Documentation Centre, which is like an open air museum which is on the site of where part of the actual wall was. Here there is a place called the Topography of Terror which has the remaining 200 metres of the Wall which marked the border between the districts of Mitte (East Berlin) and Kreuzberg (West Berlin). And finally to the Wall, a 1.3 km section of the wall which is also and open-air art gallery. 

Then we bought some groceries and headed back to the hostel where we had dinner, a beer (Krombacher) shower, then laundry and finally to sleep. 

Europe 2019 - Day 18

24 May 2019, Friday

Woke up at about 8 a.m., showered, had breakfast and then we took a stroll to a cute little ‘free library’ where I left my darling book there for anyone to read. I brought this one book with me from Malaysia and I was done with it so I donated it to the city of Amsterdam! 

Then the long walk to the metro and a short ride to the bus station. Today is a lazy day as we were travelling almost all day, from 11.15 a.m. to 7.30 p.m. to Berlin. Germany again! It is the biggest country in Central Europe and my least favourite thus far as I find the people too strict and severe, bordering on rude. But a friend told me that Berlin is unlike other parts of Germany so I hope it will be good. 

I’m so bored on the bus! I’ve finished my story book, my blog is up to date, and there’s only so much of Candy Crush that I can play at a time. I’ve resorted to reading “What does the Bible really teach?”, a free booklet I picked up outside the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam yesterday. 

We reached Berlin at about 8 p.m. and made our way to the hostel. It’s a mixed dorm and there was yet another Colombian couple in there (they seem to be everywhere!) and there was a double bed available but my friend wanted the bed downstairs because she said she had her period (roll eyes). So much for her being such an ‘easy traveller’ (double roll eyes). And she claims that I am always complaining (triple roll eyes). 

Europe 2019 - Day 17

23 May 2019, Thursday 

Woke up at about 7 a.m., shower, breakfast at the hostel (hot coffee!) and then we headed out to explore Amsterdam! The weather here is quite nice, about 21 degrees Celsius. I still had my coat on, of course.

The Netherlands is a relatively small country with about 17 million people. It’s famous for its painters (Rembrandt, Vincent Van Gogh), windmills, clogs, cheese and tulips. In Amsterdam, almost the first thing I noticed were the amount of bicycles everywhere! Here nearly all the roads have a dedicated pedestrian walkway as well as a dedicated bicycle lane. So crossing the road becomes even more tricky now. I read that because the Netherlands is a very flat country mostly at or below sea level, it makes it very easy to cycle everywhere. 

First we went to the tourist information centre as usual. It was located near the central train station quite far away from our hostel. The train station itself was quite a nice building. The city is full of canals, which offer boat rides. Then we went to our farthest destination first, to see an old windmill known as Molen van Sloten. It is quite far away, we have to take a tram for about 35 minutes and then walk through the small village of Sloten. The village of Sloten is approximately 2 centuries older than Amsterdam, dating as far back as 1063. We also passed by 2 really big and beautiful churches, the village square which used to house the former courthouse, a small police station (number 1251) that was built in 1866 and in use until the 1980s. 

Then we finally reached the windmill which was a thing of beauty. It dates from 1847 and was rebuilt in 1991. It was a working polder mill that controls the water level; it can pump up to 60,000 litres of water per minute and is largely made of wood. Speaking of wood, coopery (the making of barrels and casks) used to play a very important part in the history of the Netherlands. Barrels were used to store gherkins, cheese, butter, meat, etc and nowadays is used to store whiskey, wine and cognac. Near here there was also a statue of Rembrandt painting, as he was a miller’s son and worked in the neighbourhood of Sloten. 

Then off back to town, to the Rijksmuseum, a museum dedicated to arts and history. We didn’t go in but just took pictures of the facade as it was beautiful. Then to the Heineken Brewery. The Netherlands is, after all, the home to Heineken! Here also we only took pictures of the facade as it was too expensive to go in (21 Euros!!!). Next, to the Van Gogh museum and the Stedelijk museum (another art museum), where we also only took pictures of the facade.

Then on to Anne Frank House. Apparently you can only purchase the entrance tickets online, and when I tried to do it online it was fully booked until end of June!!! Of all the places to visit, this was one of the places I really wanted to go into but so very unfortunately I couldn’t (cry). But there’s nothing that can be done. So on to the next destination!

Next destination was the cheese museum where we saw all sorts of cheese, the infamous Gouda, goat cheese, spiced cheese, etc. I tried some too. Beside this is the tulip museum. We just missed the tulips, they last bloomed last Sunday and now they’re gone. How sad. 

Then we walked to the Red Light District, there were scantily clad women standing in the windows. Here we found a ‘coffee shop’ (shops that sell weed) and I had a joint of marijuana for 4 Euros. This was the mildest cannabis they had, the stronger being hash for 6 Euros. My friend took 2 puffs and gave the rest to me. I had to finish the damn thing, it made me damn thirsty!!! 

Then I bought some stroopwaffle to eat, I really liked it, nice and sweet, I bought some to bring back home, along with some other souvenirs (clogs, of course!). Then we just walked around Amsterdam, admiring the canals and sights such as the Oude Kerk. This is Amsterdam’s oldest building, dating back to 1306. It was a church devoted to St Nicholas, the patron saint of the people of Amsterdam. From 1587, the church became Protestant from Roman Catholic. It is the final resting place for more than 20,000 citizens of Amsterdam, including Rembrandt’s wife who was buried there in 1642 and whose grave still remains there. 

We also passed the Dam Square, the Royal Palace, other churches and Madame Tussaud’s. And then we were done with Amsterdam so we headed back to our hostel, had some beers, bought some groceries and finally called it a day. 

I like Amsterdam. It’s a beautiful place, people are relatively nice, weather was nice. Thumbs up!

Europe 2019 - Day 16

22 May 2019, Wednesday

Still not felling well!!! Terrible phlegm and it hurts when I cough. Woke up late-ish, showered (I borrowed our Russian room mate’s hair dryer yay!), packed and headed to the bus station but before that, pictures with our Russian room mate and warm goodbyes. Cappuccino and croissant at the bus station and then on our way to Amsterdam. Our original bus route was cancelled so we went for the alternative which was really roundabout - from Bruges to Ghent to Brussels, then change buses to Amsterdam. This reinforces my conviction that we should’ve just stayed in Brussels and did day trips to Bruges and Ghent. Oh well. Live and learn. 

We arrived in Amsterdam at almost 7 p.m. Then a metro stop away and walk 750 metres to the hostel. Thank God it’s not full and we got the downstairs beds. I think I will never get used to the constant moving around and adjustments to new environments. 

With nothing to do and a full day tomorrow, we just walked around our hostel. Amsterdam has a very large immigrant community here, I see a lot of Middle Eastern restaurants and people of all colours and races. Their train stations have walkways painted in rainbow colours to support of the LGBTQ community.

We went to a nearby Italian restaurant for dinner. I was famished although we did not walk a lot today; today was more of a travelling day. I had grilled salmon which came with rice and salad - so a healthy meal since I can remember. Then back to the hostel by 10.30 p.m., shower and sleep.

Europe 2019 - Day 15 (Part 2)

21 May 2019, Tuesday

Then we were done and headed back to the train station. We stopped at a food truck to have some hamburgers and here an old man started talking to me and said 43 years ago he was in a horrible accident which left his skull cracked open (his skull is now made of plastic), and which left him in a coma for some time and then a year in hospital recovering from his injuries. He has had breathing and walking and talking difficulties ever since. Out of the blue he asked me if I believed in God and I said yes and he said he used to but he doesn’t anymore because so many bad things have happened to him over the years that it’s hard for him to believe in God anymore. 

I really felt so sorry for him. So I told him he has lived for 43 years, still able to enjoy the blue sky, the fresh air and the delicious hamburger which is more than what a lot of people have, and all of these are some forms of blessings in a way. He said I have brightened his day and gave me a peck on the cheek. Until then I was still in a foul mood, but now I can’t help but wonder whether this incident is God’s way of telling me that He’s still there watching over me. 

Anyway then we took the train back to Bruges. We reached Bruges at about 2 p.m. and walked from the bus station to Minnewater, a park with a rectangular lake and beautiful views. The lake was once the mooring place for barges that sailed the inland waterways between Bruges and Ghent. 

Then we walked into the “Ten Wijngaerde” Beguinage, a Flemish beguinage which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Beguines were ‘religious women’, widows or spinsters who wished to live an independent but committed life outside the recognised orders with their vows of fidelity and poverty. They organised themselves in self-supported ‘cities of peace’. The beguinage had a central courtyard lined with trees and cobbled streets, a walled oasis with a delightful inner garden. 

After that we went to the Church of Our Lady because I wanted to see the original sculpture of the Madonna and Child by Michaelangelo. It was beautiful. Then to the Basilica of the Holy Blood to see the relic of a cloth used to wipe the body of Jesus Christ after he died, so it still had His bloodstains on it. It was apparently brought to this Basilica by Joseph of Arimathea. With all the churches that I am visiting, my friend seriously thinks I will become a Christian one day. For me, it’s not about the religious belief but the historical value of these artifacts. I think I will always remain a Hindu. I love my elephant sami too much. 

Then back to the hostel where I had a beer while blogging, followed by a nap. At about 10 p.m. we went out again together with another roommate from Russia who had just arrived at the dorm, to take some pictures of Bruges at night. Quite pretty too although the camera can’t capture what the eyes see. Then I took all the medicines in the world and slept soundly for 8 hours.

Europe 2019 - Day 15 (Part 1)

21 May 2019, Tuesday

I woke up feeling absolutely horrible. Sore throat, feverish, phlegm, the works. But the show must go on. So to the bus station to take the train to Ghent (20 minutes by train). 

In Ghent we took a bus to town and the first thing we saw was the Castle of the Counts. This building dates back to the Roman occupation. The Counts of Flanders later added more walls and towers sometime in 1180. There is a collection of guns and torture instruments inside but we didn’t go in. From there we walked to the tourist information centre, with the gate of the Old Fish Market nearby. We obtained a map and set out. It’s an even smaller town than Bruges, and we could probably finish sightseeing in half a day. 

Before that, I need to vent. When I changed money in Malaysia to bring with me, as usual they gave me big notes, the biggest being 500 Euros. And now no one will accept this big note, including the bank! It’s ridiculous. First world countries my foot. Can’t even do a simple banking transaction like this. After all it is legal tender so I really do not see why they can’t change it into smaller notes for me. Needless to say I was in a foul mood after this especially since I’m also not feeling well. 

Anyway, next we passed the Great Butcher’s Hall (medieval covered hall houses surrounding a market like square), Graslei and Korenlei (Ghent’s medieval inland port) and across St Michael’s Bridge to St Michael’s Church. At the back of the church is the Pand, formerly a Dominican friary now owned by Ghent university. 

Then back across the bridge to St Nicholas’ church, dating back to the 13th century. Then the City Pavilion with the Grote Triomfante Bell or Roeland Bell next to it. This was one of the first large bells in the belfry that cracked in 1914, and was then removed, restored and placed here next to St Nicholas’ Church. On one of the walls housing the bell is a ‘De Maagd’ fresco by Michael Borremans, one of Ghent’s internationally renowned top artists. 

Then the Belfry, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In 1313, the people of Ghent began to build the Belfry and designated it as the city’s proudest symbol of independence. Then pass NTGent, Ghent’s municipal theatre, to St Bavo’s Cathedral, or what I call the Lamb of God. 

This is a Gothic Cathedral built on the ruins of the 12th century Romanesque church that once stood here. There are a number of famous works of art here, the most famous of which is the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb by Hubert and Jan van Eyck around 1432. We could only catch a glimpse of the painting which was fine since it wasn’t the original painting; the original was being kept elsewhere due to restoration works. 

Finally to the Castle of Gerald the Devil, a former Gothic stone house of a nobleman. Why the name I do not know.