North India - Day 4

Agra / Jaipur – Day 4

18 February 2026

The homestay I stayed in was simply lovely! All the amenities of a hotel, but at budget price! I slept soundly for the first time since I arrived in India. Since there was a hair dryer I washed my hair again in the morning. I was supposed to meet Jeetu at 9 am, but he called me at 7.40 am asking if I was ready, to go for a walk around the homestay. This was quite nice, the air was still cool, the Taj Mahal only a distance away, and I saw cows and birds and even a peacock perched on a tree! 

And then we were off to Jaipur, but on the way we stopped at this place called Fatehpur Sikri (the City of Victory), a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is about 40 km from Agra. The name of the city is derived from the village called Sikri which previously occupied the location. It is a fortified ancient city situated between Agra and Jaipur that served as the Mughal capital from 1571 to 1585. It was founded by Emperor Akbar in honour of the Sufi saint Sheikh Salim Chishti, whose white marble dargah (tomb) is located within the mosque complex and is a significant pilgrimage site.  

The legend is that Emperor Akbar had three wives – one from Turkey (a Muslim), one from Goa (a Christian) and one from Rajasthan, Jodha Bhai (a Hindu), but he had no children. One day he went on a pilgrimage with his wife Jodha Bhai, and met Sheikh Salim Chishti, who blessed him and his wife, and they then had a son, named Salim, but later changed to Jahangir which loosely means the king of kings.  

In honour of Sheikh Salim Chishti, Akbar built Fatehpur Sikri, including the dargah. The place is also the burial place of all the family members and descendants of Sheikh Salim Chishti. It is said that if you entered the dargah with your right leg, made some offerings and made three wishes, there is a 99% chance that they will come true. Of course, you had to purchase the offerings (a cloth and some flowers – 🙄). This turned out to be an expensive affair, just to make a wish. I was about to abandon the whole thing when as usual in India, the price was suddenly lowered to a much more reasonable price (🙄🙄). So then I followed the strict procedure and made my three wishes, let’s see if they come true.  

The main gate is known as Buland Darwaza (Gate of Magnificence), built around 1601-1602 to commemorate Akbar's victory over Gujarat. This is the main entrance to the Jama Masjid. It is renowned as the highest gateway in Asia, measuring 134 feet from the entrance level, and 176 feet from the road (ground level). From the ground level, one had to climb 42 flights of stairs leading up to it. It is crafted from red and buff sandstone with white and black marble inlay. This is the main public entrance to the mosque complex. There is another entrance known as the Badshahi Darwaza (Imperial Gate) on the eastern side which was used by the emperor and royal family to enter the dargah area.  

Finally the city was abandoned in 1610 when Akbar was involved in a campaign in Punjab.  

For the first time since I arrived in India, I got a bit irritated. This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which means that the entrance fees are quite expensive. One would think that these fees would be enough to cover everything inside, but no. Separate charges for toilets that are NOT clean, for the person keeping their eyes on your shoes (shoes are not allowed in the dargah), for a cap that they make you wear, and of course, for the offerings. As I left the place, instead of feeling hopeful about my wish, I ended up thinking whether my wishes were worth the money I ended up spending.  

Then we continued on our way to Jaipur, stopping for lunch at a restaurant where I had butter chicken and Rajasthan roti with butter which was nice, but for the first time, not spicy enough.  

Reached Jaipur at about 7.30 pm, checked in, showered and to bed. Tomorrow is a full day.