North India - Day 6

Jaipur / Delhi / Home – Day 6

20 February 2026 

We left Jaipur at approximately 5.15 am. We stopped at Hawa Mahal to take pictures of the building when it was still dark, with colourful lights brightening up the windows, quite pretty. Along the way there was fog that I had never seen before in my life – visibility was only a few feet, and I was so glad it was not me driving. We stopped for breakfast at about 8 am, where I had a cup of coffee and kachori – something resembling a small stuffed poori, quite nice and spicy, with tomato and mint chutney.

 

We arrived in Delhi at about 11 am, and went straight to the Red Fort. Commissioned in 1638 by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan (the same ruler who built the Taj Mahal), the Red Fort became the main residence of the Mughal emperors when the capital shifted from Agra to Shahjahanabad (Old Delhi). Constructed of massive red sandstone walls stretching over two kilometres, it was less a fort in the military sense and more a self-contained royal city.

 

As we entered the fort, we passed through a bazaar area, this is known as the Chhatta Chowk which means a covered bazaar. According to the notice board, Shah Jahan was inspired by a covered bazaar he saw in Peshawar in 1646 (now in Pakistan). The Chhatta Chowk contains 32 arched bays that served as shops, just as they do today (mainly selling souvenirs). In Shah Jahan’s time, there were shops on both the upper and lower levels, selling silk, brocades, velvet, gold, silver, jewellery and gems.

 

Behind this once lay a world of refinement: marble pavilions inlaid with semi-precious stones, flowing water channels known as the Nahr-i-Behisht (“Stream of Paradise”), perfumed gardens, and halls of dazzling ceremony. The Naubat Khana (drum house) stands at the entrance of the palatial complex. In its days of glory, musicians from the Naubat Khana announced the arrival of the Emperor or other prominent dignitaries at the court of the public audience. Music was played five times a day at chosen hours.

 

The Diwan-i-Aam (Hall of Public Audience) was where the emperor addressed petitions from his subjects. The Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience) was more intimate – and once housed the legendary Peacock Throne, later carried off during Persian invasions. Inscribed on its walls was a line that has echoed through history: “If there be a paradise on earth, it is this, it is this, it is this.”

 

There is also a mosque here, known as Moti Masjid, or the Pearl Mosque. It was built by Aurangzeb for his personal use. It would take him just a short walk from his bed chamber to reach the sacred place of worship at various times of the day or night. The mosque was also used by the ladies of the seraglio (harem) who entered through a passage in the northern wall of the enclosure.

 

The fort remained the seat of Mughal power until 1857, when the last emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar, was deposed by the British after the Indian Rebellion. From then on, the Red Fort shifted from imperial residence to colonial military stronghold – and later, to a symbol of Indian nationhood.

 

Today, every year on India’s Independence Day, the Prime Minister addresses the nation from its ramparts, a powerful transformation of meaning: from Mughal sovereignty to colonial control to independent republic. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Red Fort stands not merely as architecture, but as layered history in stone – empire, conquest, decline, and rebirth.

 

About a kilometre away from the Red Fort, through bustling roadside vendors, rises the Jama Masjid – vast, commanding, and quietly magnificent. Commissioned in 1650 by Shah Jahan and completed in 1656, it was intended to be the principal mosque of his new capital, Shahjahanabad. Its very name means “Friday Mosque,” the congregational mosque where the faithful gather for the main weekly prayers. There are four entrances to the mosque, and we were actually to enter by the main entrance where we had to pay an entrance fee, but Jeetu cleverly entered by another entrance, for free 😊

 

Built of red sandstone and white marble, the mosque sits atop a high plinth, reached by broad flights of steps that seem to prepare one, gradually, for stillness. Three great domes striped in marble crown the prayer hall, and two slender minarets rise over 40 metres into the Delhi sky. From their balconies, the city unfolds in every direction – Old Delhi’s rooftops, tangled lanes, and the distant modern skyline beyond.

 

The courtyard is immense, capable of holding more than 20,000 worshippers at a time. And yet, despite its scale, the space feels ordered rather than overwhelming. The rhythmic arches, the cool stone beneath bare feet, the precise geometry of its design – all express the Mughal love of proportion and symmetry.

 

Inside, the mihrab marks the direction of Mecca, and delicate calligraphy adorns the walls. Like much Mughal architecture, the Jama Masjid embodies both spiritual devotion and imperial authority: it was a place of worship, certainly, but also a declaration of cultural confidence at the height of Mughal power.

 

On the walk back we stopped to drink sugar cane juice, which tasted suspiciously sourish. And there was another mosque – the Sunehri Masjid, built in 1751 AD by Qudsiya Begum, mistress of Muhammad Shah and mother of Ahmad Shah, and repaired in 1852 AD by Bahadur Shah II.

 

The last place we stopped at was the Raj Ghat: Gandhi Samadhi. It was here that Mahatma Gandhi was cremated on 31 January 1948, a day after his martyrdom. A memorial was built here to pay homage to him, which is a black marble platform left open to the sky. On the one side in the centre an eternal flame burns, and on the other side the last alleged utterances of Gandhi – ‘Hey Ram’ (Oh God) is inscribed. 

Lunch – I had fish tikka and a beer, and it was good. And then we took a slow drive to the airport. 

I said goodbye to Jeetu, to Delhi, to India. 

Till we meet again… perhaps.

North India - Day 5

 Jaipur – Day 5

 19 February 2026 

Today the plan is to explore Jaipur. Jaipur is known as the pink city and gem city. Pink city because in 1876, when Prince Albert, the then Prince of Wales, (later King Edward VII) visited, Jaipur was painted terracotta pink, a colour associated with hospitality. The tradition continued, and the old city still maintains that iconic hue. Gem city because it is one of the world’s most important centres for gem cutting, polishing, and jewellery manufacturing.

First, to Amber Fort, one of the most magnificent hill forts of Rajasthan. The fort complex was begun in 1592 by Man Singh I, a trusted general of the Mughal emperor Akbar, and was expanded by successive rulers over roughly a century. It is therefore over 400 years old.

 

Amber Fort is now part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing known as the “Hill Forts of Rajasthan” (inscribed in 2013).

 

The defensive walls stretch dramatically across the Aravalli hills and connect with the Jaigarh Fort above. Together, these fortifications extend for nearly 10–12 kilometres, forming an impressive defensive network rather than a single continuous fort.

 

The Chand Pol, or Moon Gate, was one of the main entrances, especially for commoners. The upper storey of the gate houses the Naubatkhana (drum house), where kettle drums and other instruments were played. Naubat was a ceremonial form of royal music performed at fixed hours of the day and on special occasions such as victories or royal arrivals. There was strict protocol surrounding it, and listeners were expected to remain silent as a mark of respect. The tradition of royal kettle drums predates the Mughals and has roots in Persian and Central Asian court culture.

 

The courtyard was grand. Women in those days were not allowed to appear in public 🙄. They remained in the zenana quarters and observed events from screened balconies above, looking through intricately carved jharokhas (windows that were carved with patterns across so that they could see without being seen). From there, they would watch their husbands return from battle in victorious procession across the courtyard.

 

Then there was the Diwan-i-Aam, or Hall of Public Audience, modelled on similar halls in Mughal palaces. It was here that the Raja gave audience to his subjects, heard petitions, and met officials. On special occasions, especially after victories, festivities were also held here. The architecture beautifully blends Rajput strength with Mughal elegance, reflecting the political alliance between the Rajput rulers of Amber and the Mughal court.

 

Deeper inside lies the famous Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Palace), where thousands of tiny convex mirrors are set into the walls and ceilings. It is said that even a single candle flame could illuminate the entire room, the light multiplied into countless reflections.

 

There were royal gardens laid out in formal geometric style overlooking Maota Lake below (a man made lake). The palace also contained sophisticated water systems, including furnaces where firewood was burnt to heat water, allowing for both hot and cold baths, quite advanced for its time. Rainwater harvesting systems were also carefully designed to suit Rajasthan’s dry climate.

 

The palace of Raja Man Singh, completed in 1599 after about 25 years of construction, forms one of the oldest parts of the complex. He had 12 wives, and they inhabited a part of the palace where no men were allowed, only women servants and eunuchs. It includes private chambers arranged around inner courtyards, along with seasonal rooms designed for summer and winter comfort, thick walls and ventilation for cooling in the heat, and enclosed spaces for warmth in winter.

 

On the way back from the Amber Fort, we stopped to see the Jal Mahal (Water Palace), an iconic, 18^th-century, five-story palace situated in the middle of Man Sagar Lake on the road between Jaipur and Amber Fort. Built by Maharaja Jai Singh II, this often partially submerged red sandstone structure blends Rajput and Mughal styles, originally serving as a royal hunting lodge. It was built first, and then the water was put in in the man-made lake.

 

Next, the Hawa Mahal. This building was built by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh in 1799 AD. He was a devotee of Lord Krishna, and therefore designed the façade of the building in the shape of Lord Kirshna’s crown. The building is 87 feet high, pyramid shaped, five stories high, and has 365 windows. There is a water fountain in the second courtyard. Hawa Mahal is connected to the city palace by a passage, through which royal ladies come to view processions or other activities in the main market street. Today, the area still operates as a market street.

 

Next, Jantar Mantar. Built in 1728 by the astronomer-king Sawai Jai Singh II, Jantar Mantar is not a ruin in the romantic sense, but a working idea cast in stone. The name derives from yantra (instrument) and mantra (calculation), and that is precisely what it is: a vast open-air laboratory where time, stars and shadow were measured with startling precision long before modern telescopes became commonplace. Its most commanding structure, the Samrat Yantra – the world’s largest stone sundial – rises like a monumental staircase into the sky. At nearly 27 metres high, its sharp triangular gnomon casts a shadow so exact it can measure local solar time to within seconds. One does not merely look at it; one stands inside geometry.

 

But the real fascination lies in the array of other instruments scattered across the complex, each resembling abstract sculpture yet built for meticulous celestial observation. There is the Jai Prakash Yantra, two enormous bowl-shaped hemispheres carved with celestial markings, allowing astronomers to stand inside and track the position of stars as if mapping the sky from within. The Ram Yantra consists of open cylindrical structures used to measure altitude and azimuth – determining exactly where a celestial body sits in the heavens. The Narivalaya Yantra is aligned with the Earth’s axis and divided into northern and southern faces to measure time in both hemispheres. Other devices calculated zodiac positions, predicted eclipses, and tracked planetary movements with impressive accuracy.

 

What is most astonishing is that these are not decorative follies but instruments of rigorous scientific purpose – a fusion of Hindu, Islamic and European astronomical knowledge expressed in stone, marble and mathematical confidence. Walking through Jantar Mantar feels less like touring a monument and more like stepping into the mind of a ruler who believed that the universe could be understood, measured, and perhaps even reasoned with – if only one built instruments large enough to ask the sky the right questions.

 

Lastly, City Palace. This is a grand complex of courtyards, gardens and intricately decorated halls that once formed the seat of power for the rulers of the kingdom of Jaipur. Construction began in the early 18^th century under Sawai Jai Singh II, the same visionary ruler who built Jantar Mantar, and successive maharajas expanded it over generations. He ascended the throne at just eleven in 1699, and in 1727, he founded the city of Jaipur as a planned capital, based on Indic principles of vastu vidya (ancient Indian science of architecture and design) as well as knowledge gathered from West Asia and Europe. His second son and eventual successor, Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh, was a noted patron of art and architecture and was himself a poet, best known for constructing the Hawa Mahal.

 

This was the residence of the Kachwaha Rajput dynasty, which ruled Jaipur from 1727 onwards. Within its walls, state affairs were conducted, dignitaries received, ceremonies performed, and royal life unfolded in carefully choreographed splendour. The complex blends Rajput, Mughal and even European architectural influences – carved marble doorways, delicate lattice screens, painted gateways representing the seasons, sweeping courtyards framed by colonnades.

 

Among its most remarkable spaces is the Chandra Mahal, still the private residence of the former royal family of Jaipur, today represented by Padmanabh Singh, the 42^nd generation of the dynasty. Part of Chandra Mahal is open to visitors, offering a glimpse into royal apartments adorned with crystal chandeliers, vintage furniture and centuries-old manuscripts.

 

Another highlight is the Mubarak Mahal, originally built as a reception hall for visiting dignitaries. It now houses a textile museum displaying elaborate royal garments including vast, pleated robes worn by Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh I, said to weigh over 200 kilograms when fully spread. Nearby, in the Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience), stand two enormous sterling silver urns, reputedly the largest in the world, which was used to carry sacred Ganges water to England when a maharaja travelled abroad in the early 20^th century.

 

In one of the galleries I learned some interesting things. The first, chess. According to one notice board I read, the earliest precursor of modern chess is a game called Caturanga, which flourished in India by the 6^th century. The name came from a battle formation mentioned in the Mahabharata, and it is the earliest known game to have two essential features found in all later chess variations: different pieces having different powers, and victory that depended on the fate of one piece – the King of modern chess. The traditional game had four parts: elephants, chariots, horsemen and foot soldiers.

 

Then cards or Ganjifa, a word that comes from the Persian word ganjifeh, meaning playing cards. The first reference to the word is found in the biography of Babur, the founder of the Mughal dynasty, written in the early 16^th century. There was also information about types of men and women garments and headdresses. 

 

Today, the City Palace functions partly as a museum and partly as a living royal residence. It is at once history, architecture, and continuity, a reminder that Jaipur’s royal story did not end with empire, but simply adapted to modern India.

 

For lunch, I tried the most famous dish in Jaipur – Laal Maas – a fiery, traditional Rajasthani mutton curry with naan. The fiery part did not disappoint 😊For tea later in the evening I had chai with gelebi – it was good!

 

And then to bed, because tomorrow we leave Jaipur for Delhi early – 5 am!

 

North India - Day 4

Agra / Jaipur – Day 4

18 February 2026

The homestay I stayed in was simply lovely! All the amenities of a hotel, but at budget price! I slept soundly for the first time since I arrived in India. Since there was a hair dryer I washed my hair again in the morning. I was supposed to meet Jeetu at 9 am, but he called me at 7.40 am asking if I was ready, to go for a walk around the homestay. This was quite nice, the air was still cool, the Taj Mahal only a distance away, and I saw cows and birds and even a peacock perched on a tree! 

And then we were off to Jaipur, but on the way we stopped at this place called Fatehpur Sikri (the City of Victory), a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is about 40 km from Agra. The name of the city is derived from the village called Sikri which previously occupied the location. It is a fortified ancient city situated between Agra and Jaipur that served as the Mughal capital from 1571 to 1585. It was founded by Emperor Akbar in honour of the Sufi saint Sheikh Salim Chishti, whose white marble dargah (tomb) is located within the mosque complex and is a significant pilgrimage site.  

The legend is that Emperor Akbar had three wives – one from Turkey (a Muslim), one from Goa (a Christian) and one from Rajasthan, Jodha Bhai (a Hindu), but he had no children. One day he went on a pilgrimage with his wife Jodha Bhai, and met Sheikh Salim Chishti, who blessed him and his wife, and they then had a son, named Salim, but later changed to Jahangir which loosely means the king of kings.  

In honour of Sheikh Salim Chishti, Akbar built Fatehpur Sikri, including the dargah. The place is also the burial place of all the family members and descendants of Sheikh Salim Chishti. It is said that if you entered the dargah with your right leg, made some offerings and made three wishes, there is a 99% chance that they will come true. Of course, you had to purchase the offerings (a cloth and some flowers – 🙄). This turned out to be an expensive affair, just to make a wish. I was about to abandon the whole thing when as usual in India, the price was suddenly lowered to a much more reasonable price (🙄🙄). So then I followed the strict procedure and made my three wishes, let’s see if they come true.  

The main gate is known as Buland Darwaza (Gate of Magnificence), built around 1601-1602 to commemorate Akbar's victory over Gujarat. This is the main entrance to the Jama Masjid. It is renowned as the highest gateway in Asia, measuring 134 feet from the entrance level, and 176 feet from the road (ground level). From the ground level, one had to climb 42 flights of stairs leading up to it. It is crafted from red and buff sandstone with white and black marble inlay. This is the main public entrance to the mosque complex. There is another entrance known as the Badshahi Darwaza (Imperial Gate) on the eastern side which was used by the emperor and royal family to enter the dargah area.  

Finally the city was abandoned in 1610 when Akbar was involved in a campaign in Punjab.  

For the first time since I arrived in India, I got a bit irritated. This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which means that the entrance fees are quite expensive. One would think that these fees would be enough to cover everything inside, but no. Separate charges for toilets that are NOT clean, for the person keeping their eyes on your shoes (shoes are not allowed in the dargah), for a cap that they make you wear, and of course, for the offerings. As I left the place, instead of feeling hopeful about my wish, I ended up thinking whether my wishes were worth the money I ended up spending.  

Then we continued on our way to Jaipur, stopping for lunch at a restaurant where I had butter chicken and Rajasthan roti with butter which was nice, but for the first time, not spicy enough.  

Reached Jaipur at about 7.30 pm, checked in, showered and to bed. Tomorrow is a full day.

 

 

North India - Day 3

Agra - Day 3

17 February 2026

At 6 am this morning we left for Agra. For the first time in a long time from booking with Booking.com, I wasn’t happy with the hotel I chose in Delhi. It is ok enough, but the walls are too thin; and in the evenings there were some construction work going on that sounded as it if was coming from just beside my room; random conversations filter the night air with the force of a jet engine; and a horrid baby wailed the night away. All leading to me not having enough sleep. 

We first stopped for tea at a small road side stall, people here drink tea more than coffee. Coffee would have to wait, says Jeetu. I went to sleep in the car after that. At about 8 am we stopped at a place called Jolly Go for breakfast, where I had coffee at last, and uttappam of all things. Then back on the road again. We reached Agra at about 11 am, and then to the Taj Mahal!

It’s one of the things on my bucket list, and I’m so glad I finally made it!

 

The Taj Mahal is a UNESCO World Heritage site, situated on the right bank of the Yamuna River within a large Mughal garden complex covering approximately 17 hectares in the Agra district of Uttar Pradesh. It was commissioned by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his third and favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal.

 

Work on the monument began in 1632 and the main mausoleum was completed in 1648. The mosque, guest house, and principal southern gateway were finished later, along with the outer courtyard and surrounding cloisters, which were completed in 1653. Several historical records and Qur’anic inscriptions in Arabic script have helped historians determine the construction timeline. Artisans from across the Mughal Empire, as well as from Central Asia and Iran, were brought together for the project, including masons, stonecutters, inlay specialists, sculptors, painters, calligraphers, and dome constructors.

 

The Taj Mahal is regarded as the finest example of Indo-Islamic architecture. Its architectural beauty lies in the balanced arrangement of solid and open spaces, curved and rounded forms, and the striking effects of light and shadow created by its arches and domes. The contrast between the green gardens, red pathways, and blue sky gives the monument a constantly changing appearance. The carved marble reliefs and intricate inlay work using precious and semi-precious stones further enhance its distinction. Seriously, real gemstones for colouring! What a great idea for keeping the colours last throughout centuries!

 

One of the monument’s most notable features is the innovative planning introduced by Shah Jahan’s architects and garden designers. Unlike many similar structures, the tomb is positioned at one end of the four-part garden rather than at its centre, creating a dramatic sense of depth and perspective. It is also an outstanding example of a raised mausoleum. The tomb stands on a square platform, with four minarets placed at its corners. The octagonal bases of the minarets project slightly beyond the platform’s edges. A central staircase on the southern side leads up to the platform.

 

The four detached minarets at the platform’s corners introduced a new architectural element to Mughal design. They not only frame the mausoleum visually but also enhance its three-dimensional impact. The way the monument is built creates all kinds of illusions, truly. If you walk towards it, your mind tells you that it should appear to be bigger, but somehow it seems to be getting further away from you. Meanwhile, the four minarets look absolutely straight, but they are in fact slightly curved.

 

The layout of the Taj Mahal reflects careful symmetry and balance. At its heart is an octagonal burial chamber, surrounded by entrance halls and four corner rooms, with the same arrangement repeated on the upper level. This chamber contains the cenotaphs of Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan. Surrounding them is a finely carved octagonal marble screen, highly polished and decorated with detailed inlay work. The borders are set with precious stones forming floral designs, crafted so skillfully that the flowers appear almost lifelike.

 

Mumtaz Mahal’s cenotaph is placed precisely at the centre of the chamber on a rectangular base adorned with floral inlay motifs. Shah Jahan’s larger cenotaph was added more than thirty years later and is positioned to the west of hers. The visible cenotaphs are symbolic; the actual graves are located in a lower chamber, following the tradition of Mughal imperial tombs.

 

Apart from the tomb, the most striking structure within the complex is the main gateway, located at the centre of the southern forecourt wall. Double-arched galleries line its northern façade. The garden in front is divided into four sections by two main pathways, and each section is further divided by smaller cross paths, following the traditional Timurid-Persian concept of a walled garden. The eastern and western boundary walls each contain a pavilion at their midpoint. 

Then to lunch. I had fish curry and roti, I requested for spicy, and again, they didn’t disappoint. North Indian cuisines tend to be very ‘lemak’, and you are full fast. But the curry, thick as it was, was really tasty. 

Then to the Red Fort, also known as the Agra Fort, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Built almost entirely of red sandstone, it was once surrounded by a moat fed by the Yamuna river, with crocodiles once upon a time placed in them to deter enemies. There are two sets of walls – outer and inner walls, which makes the entire fort look almost impenetrable – thick ramparts, sloping battlements, the sense that this structure was never meant to be admired so much as obeyed. It is easy to forget that this was once the heart of an empire, not merely its defence. An entire world lived, governed, plotted, and unravelled behind these walls.

 

Built by Akbar, the fort carries his personality unmistakably: powerful, disciplined, and unapologetically martial. The red sandstone dominates, heavy and uncompromising, its colour deepened by centuries of sun and dust. Yet once inside, the fort reveals its contradictions.

 

The severity softens into courtyards and palaces, and the architecture begins to change character. White stone appears where red once ruled. Arches grow more graceful. Light filters in deliberately, as if it were part of the design rather than an accident. Power, here, learned to dress itself in beauty.

 

And then comes the quiet cruelty of history.

 

From the Musamman Burj, the view opens across the river to the Taj Mahal. It is almost unbearable to imagine Shah Jahan standing here, day after day, gazing at the tomb he built for his wife while being held prisoner by his own son, Aurangzeb. The fort no longer feels like a palace at this point; it feels like a gilded cage.

 

What struck me most was how close everything is – the fort, the river, the Taj – and yet how completely separated they are by power, ambition, and fate. Love lies across the water, visible but unreachable. Authority looms behind, heavy and inescapable. The Yamuna flows between them, indifferent, as it always has been.

 

Walking through the Red Fort in Agra, I felt less like a visitor and more like a witness – to the rise of an empire, and to the quiet loneliness that often comes with absolute power. 

Then we went to a leather shop. Agra is famous for its leather. Large imperial armies and royal households required vast quantities of leather for shoes, saddles, belts, shields, and military equipment. Skilled artisans settled in and around the city to meet this demand. Over time, leather craftsmanship became an established local trade. Here I bought a wallet for my father, a wallet for Philip and one for me 😊 

Then to a marble shop, where I was first shown how marbles were carved in those days – all by hand, no machines, only tools like chisels of various kinds, and for the larger work, the artisan could knock a hammer onto the chisel; but for the more intricate work, the artisan had to literally carve the marble out bit by bit to achieve the design he wanted . It is no easy task. Here I bought some souvenirs, and then I was also strong-armed into buying a saree that was although nice, really something I did not need. I have GOT to learn how to say no more effectively!

 

And lastly, to Mehtab Bagh (which literally means “Moonlight Garden”). This is a garden that sits directly across the Yamuna River from the Taj Mahal, and it is believed that it was always meant to be part of the Taj’s grand visual composition.

The garden actually predates the Taj. It was first laid out by Emperor Babur in the early 16^th century as one of the many char bagh (four-part) gardens along the river. When Shah Jahan later built the Taj Mahal, he incorporated Mehtab Bagh into his overall design scheme. The placement was no accident because from this point, the Taj aligns perfectly along the central axis, creating a breathtaking, symmetrical view across the water.

 

There’s a long-standing legend that Shah Jahan intended to build a “Black Taj” for himself on this very site – a dark marble twin to Mumtaz Mahal’s white mausoleum – but there is no proof of any of this – more of a romantic myth than fact. What is more plausible is that the garden functioned as a royal viewing terrace, a serene place from which Shah Jahan could admire the Taj glowing in moonlight.

 

Over time, however, the garden fell into neglect. Flooding from the Yamuna altered the landscape, and the original plantings and water channels deteriorated. By the 18^th and 19^th centuries, much of it had faded into ruin. It wasn’t until archaeological excavations in the late 20^th century that the garden’s original Mughal layout was rediscovered and partially restored.

 

Today, Mehtab Bagh is quieter than the Taj complex itself, with lawns, young trees, straight water channels, and unobstructed river views. It doesn’t have the same architectural drama, but that’s precisely its charm. The real spectacle is the Taj across the water, especially at sunset or under a full moon, when the marble seems almost luminous. 

And just like that, Day 3 ended.

 

North India - Day 2

New Delhi – Day 2

16 February 2026

At 9 am, we left to go past the building where the President of India resides and works at, known as the Rashtrapati Bhavan (formerly the Viceroy's House), a 340-room, four-story building designed by Edwin Lutyens and Herbert Baker, which became the official residence in 1950. 

Somewhere nearby, the Old Parliament House (Samvidhan Sadan), designed by Lutyens and Baker in 1927, served as the seat of legislature for 73 years before being replaced. Almost just beside it stands the New Parliament Building, a modern, triangular-shaped structure designed by Bimal Patel as part of the Central Vista Project to offer more space and modern amenities. The Parliament of India consists of the Lok Sabha (House of the People) and the Rajya Sabha (Council of States), alongside the President. 

Next, to Qutb-Minar, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is situated in Lalkot, one of the first cities among the seven legendary cities of Delhi. Qutbu'd-Din Aibak laid the foundation of Minar in AD 1199 for the use of the mu'azzin (crier) to give calls for prayer and raised the first storey, to which were added three more storeys by his successor and son-in-law, Shamsu'd-Din Iltutmish (AD 1211-36). 

They were known as the Delhi Sultanate, ruling after Muhammed of Ghur up to 1296 AD. They have been referred to as the ‘Slave Dynasty’ as the most prominent among then, including Qutbu'd-Din Aibak and Iltutmish, were former slaves. It was also during this time that Raziya was crowned the first lady Sultan of India. Lalkot thus stood for both emancipation and empowerment. 

Although it was built before the Mughal period, it is said to have all the typical characteristics of the Lodhi style of construction. All the storeys are surrounded by a projected balcony encircling the minar and supported by stone brackets, which are decorated with honey-comb design, more conspicuously in the first storey. At the centre, in red and buff sandstone is the highest tower in India. It has a diameter of 14.32 m at the base and about 2.75 m on the top with a height of 72.5 m. Quite impressive, really, considering it was built way back in the 12^th century.

Numerous inscriptions in Arabic and Nagari characters in different places of the minar reveal the history of Qutb. According to the inscriptions on its surface, it was repaired by Firuz Shah Tughlaq (AD 1351-88) and Sikandar Lodi (AD 1489-1517). Major R. Smith also repaired and restored the minar in 1829.

 

Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque, to the north-east of minar was built by Qutbu'd-Din Aibak in AD 1198. It is the earliest extant mosque built by the Delhi Sultans. It consists of a rectangular courtyard enclosed by cloisters, erected with the carved columns and architectural members of 27 Hindu and Jain temples which were demolished by Qutbu'd-Din Aibak as recorded in his inscription on the main eastern entrance.

 

Later, a lofty arched screen was erected and the mosque was enlarged by Shamsu'd-Din Iltutmish (AD 1210-35) and Alau'd-Din Khalji. The Iron Pillar in the courtyard bears an inscription in Sanskrit in Gupta Brahmi script of fourth century AD, according to which the pillar was set up as a Vishnudhvaja (standard of god Vishnu) on the hill known as Vishnupada in memory of a mighty king named Chandragupta II (375-413 AD) of the imperial Gupta dynasty. A deep socket on the top of the ornate capital indicates that probably an image of Garuda (the vehicle of Vishnu) was fixed into it.

 

The tomb of Iltutmish (AD 1211-36) was built in AD 1235. It is a plain square chamber of red sandstone, profusely carved with inscriptions, geometrical and arabesque patterns in Saracenic tradition on the entrances and the whole of the interior. Some of the motifs on the wheel and tassel are reminiscent of Hindu designs.

 

Ala'i-Darwaza, the southern gateway of the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque was constructed by Alau'd-Din Khalji in AH 710 (AD 1311) as recorded in the inscriptions engraved on it. This is the first building employing Islamic principles of construction and ornamentation.

 

Ala'i Minar which stands to the north of Qutb-Minar, was commenced by Alau'd-Din Khalji, with the intention of making it twice the size of earlier Minar. He could complete only the first storey which now has an extant height of 25 m. The other remains in the Qutb complex comprise madrasa, graves, tombs, mosque and architectural members.

 

And then bad news. The Red Fort and Jama Masjid are closed on Mondays, and of course, today is a Monday. So we had to change plans, and it is agreed that when I come back from Jaipur to Delhi, I will visit these places before heading to the airport. A bit of a rush for sure, but hey, I’m already here, I don’t want to miss it.

 

So then we went to Humayun’s Tomb.

 

Humayun’s Tomb, Delhi is the first of the grand dynastic mausoleums that were to become synonyms of Mughal architecture with the architectural style reaching its zenith 80 years later at the later Taj Mahal. In 1533 AD, Badshah Nasiruddin Muhammad Humayun (1508-56) ordered the construction of the city he called Dinpanah (the Refuge of the Faithful). Humayun was the son of Zahiruddin Muhammad Babur, the first Mughal emperor, and the father of the great Jalaluddin Muhammad Akbar.

 

One of the information boards had this quote from Gulbadan Begum, Humayun’s sister:

“There was in Humayun an innate gentleness, a trustfulness that was too naïve, even for a child – a burnt child at least learns quickly to dread fire – but not Humayun; There was a quality of the saint in this strange man; Humayun never broke his promises.

 

Humayun’s Tomb stands within a complex of 27.04 ha. that includes other contemporary, 16^th century Mughal garden-tombs such as Nila Gumbad, Isa Khan, Bu Halima, Afsarwala, Barber’s Tomb and the complex where the craftsmen employed for the Building of Humayun’s Tomb stayed, the Arab Serai.

 

Isa Khan’s garden tomb pre-dates Humayun’s Tomb by two decades, and is the culmination of an architectural style used for royal tombs in Delhi during the Sayyid and Lodhi dynasties from the early 15^th to the early 16^th centuries. It is the only surviving octagonal enclosed tomb complex with walls, mosque, and gateway intact.

 

Humayun’s Tomb was built in the 1560’s, with the patronage of Humayun’s son, the great Emperor Akbar. Persian and Indian craftsmen worked together to build the garden-tomb, far grander than any tomb built before in the Islamic world. Humayun’s garden-tomb is an example of the charbagh (a four quadrant garden with the four rivers of Quranic paradise represented), with pools joined by channels. This had its origin in the tomb of Cyrus the Great in Persia (6^th century BCE). The garden is entered from lofty gateways on the south and from the west with pavilions located in the centre of the eastern and northern walls.

 

Babur, whose passion was flowering and fruit-bearing trees, laid out charbagh gardens, as did Akbar, Jahangir, and Shah Jahan:

 

“In every corner I planted beautiful gardens… in every garden I sowed roses and narcissus. Everywhere that is habitable it should be possible to construct waterwheels, create running water and make planned geometric spaces.”

 

There is a saying in Malay that I now believe has its origins in Babur’s words:

“Dalam hati ada taman, dalam taman ada bunga…” Lol

 

The charbagh garden were for royal picnics, to receive dignitaries, for rulers to consult with ministers and as halting-places for the army when on the move. The low platforms at the intersection of the walkways would have been the base for tents, providing shade to visitors.

 

The mausoleum itself stands on a high, wide terraced platform with two deep vaulted cells on all four sides. It has an irregular octagon plan with four long sides and chamfered edges. It is surmounted by a 42.5 m high double dome clad with marble flanked by pillared kiosks (chhatris) and the domes of the central chhatris are adorned with glazed ceramic tiles. The middle of each side is deeply recessed by large arched vaults with a series of smaller ones set into the facade.

 

The interior is a large octagonal chamber with vaulted roof compartments interconnected by galleries or corridors. This octagonal plan is repeated on the second storey. The structure is of dressed stone clad in red sandstone with white and black inlaid marble borders. 

Humayun’s garden-tomb is also called the ‘dormitory of the Mughals’ as in the cells are buried over 160 Mughal family members. Lieutenant Hudson captured the last Mughal emperor Bahadur Shah II. In Farsi, the term for ‘a walled garden’ is ‘pairi daeza’. In English the word became ‘paradise’.

 

The tomb stands in an extremely significant archaeological setting, centred at the Shrine of the 14^th century Sufi Saint, Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya. Since it is considered auspicious to be buried near a saint’s grave, seven centuries of tomb building has led to the area becoming the densest ensemble of medieval Islamic buildings in India.

 

In India, the Mughals used red sandstone, the colour of the royal tent, for their buildings. The red-white contrast was significant to the design used with skill. The gleaming white marble dome crowns the façade of the principal structure. The six-sided star, found on Islamic buildings worldwide (and on Judaic, Christian and Hindu buildings) is the most prominent ornamentation, together with fine lime plaster ceramic tiles ornamenting the small canopies, and with decorative stone-flooring and marble-clad minarets.

 

After this, we had lunch at a restaurant. I had mutton briyani, and the waiter innocently asked me whether I wanted spicy or not. I said ‘full spicy’ which drew a look of shock from the waiter. I had doubts whether it would really be spicy, but in this India did not disappoint! I also tried the local beer – Kingfisher.

 

And then we walked around the market area around my hotel, vendors were selling everything from cooked food to fresh fruits, vegetables, jewellery, clothes, you name it. And then I saw an old man selling books. I ended up buying two – The Satanic Verses by Salman Rushdie which I always wanted to read to see what the hype was all about, and Why I Assassinated Gandhi by Nadhuram Ghose.

 

And then, since there was nothing to do, I checked my emails, did some work, washed my hair (no hair dryer), wrote this blog and now I’m going to sleep.

North India - Day 1

New Delhi – Day 1

15 February 2026

Woke up at 3 am, and left the house at 4.30 am for the airport. Everything went smoothly, and I arrived at the Indira Gandhi International Airport at New Delhi at approximately 11.30 am Delhi time, which is around 2.00 pm our time (we are 2 and a half hours ahead). 

For an international airport at the capital of India, it was actually quite disappointing – it looked old and worn and a bit of a maze. At the airport is where I encountered my first dose of India – at the counter for foreign passports, I was told to go to the counter for foreign passports and e-visa, only to be told to go back to the first counter. There, I was then told to fill up a form. And when I returned, I was told to go back to the second counter, where a long line had already formed by then. And there are people just sitting at the first counters doing nothing, except telling people to fill up forms and go to other counters; basically appearing busy without actually doing anything 🙄.

Apart from that everything was alright, and I met my driver just outside the arrival gate. His name is Joginder, Jeetu for short. He is very nice, except that his English is not so good so we have to communicate using the google translate app sometimes. Today was supposed to be an easy day, he was just supposed to drop me off at my hotel, but he drove me around Delhi, stopping at a road side stall to eat a plate of fruits – papaya, banana, ciku and grapes, dusted lightly with (of all things!) turmeric powder, which made the whole thing weird. 

My impression of India since the last time I was here back in 2012 or 2013, although to the southern part, is the same – disorganised, crowded, dirty. There are cows and dogs roaming the streets, people drive by some unwritten rule of communicating to one another through horns, and there was more than once where I just had to turn away, I thought this is it – we are going to hit someone or something – but we never did. Jeetu is on the phone while driving, and while the whole of New Delhi (or so it seemed to me) was honking at us. The whole thing is actually quite impressive, if it wasn’t so scary. 

Then to the hotel which is very basic but that’s ok, as I will only be here for 2 nights. I told Jeetu that I planned to walk around my hotel area, but he absolutely forbade it, telling me that he will pick me up in an hour and we shall go see India Gate, to which I said ok, of course. 

At the centre of New Delhi stands the 42 m high India Gate, an "Arc-de-Triomphe" like archway in the middle of a crossroad. Almost similar to its French counterpart, it commemorates the 70,000 Indian soldiers who lost their lives fighting for the British Army during World War I. The memorial bears the names of more than 13,516 British and Indian soldiers killed in the Northwestern Frontier in the Afghan war of 1919.

Surrounding the imposing structure is a large expanse of lush green lawns, canals, and a fountain. It is full of people. Behind the India Gate stands a 28-foot-tall black granite statue under a canopy, this is the statue of the renowned Indian freedom fighter, Subhas Chandra Bose. 

After this we went back to the hotel, and Jeetu took me to a nearby stall for a samosa and gulab jamun. That was quite nice, blending in with the locals, although people keep staring at me like I’m some alien from outer space 🙄. Then I bought some water to drink and went back to my room, which was freezing although I shut off the air cond and the fan. There was nothing for it – I took a nice HOT shower and immediately hid under the covers to avoid any kind of cold.