Tuesday, July 29, 2025

Athens - Day 3 (Part 3)

15 July 2025

The Odeon of Herodes Atticus, located on the southwest slope of the Acropolis in Athens, is a stunning Roman-era stone theatre built in 161 AD by Herodes Atticus in memory of his wife. Originally used for music and poetry performances, it seated around 5,000 people and featured tiered marble seating, a semi-circular orchestra, and a grand stage building. Today, it remains an active venue, hosting concerts, operas, and plays, offering audiences a unique experience under the open sky, with the Parthenon illuminated above, blending ancient grandeur with modern artistry. It was quite a breathtaking sight, actually.

Next, the Erechtheion. Strange and sacred, the Erechtheion is known for its asymmetry and the iconic Porch of the Caryatids, where six sculpted maidens stand in place of columns. Built over ancient shrines, it was considered the most holy site of the Acropolis, the place where Athena and Poseidon supposedly battled for the city's patronage. Every inch feels spiritual, mysterious, and storied.

And lastly, the jewel of Athens – the Parthenon! Dedicated to Athena Parthenos, protector of the city, it blends beauty, power, and proportion in a way that still leaves visitors speechless. Despite its weathering and past destruction, the Parthenon retains a kind of sublime authority, as if the spirit of Athens still lives within its columns. Up close, the marble glows with golden light. From afar, it anchors the entire skyline. It is well known for its symmetrical perfection, but its perfection actually stems from imperfection – uneven floors and curving pillars, to create the illusion of perfect symmetry. The human mind is truly a wonderful thing!

Then we made our way back to the conference venue, because we were in for a treat with an Ancient Athenian dinner – one purportedly eaten by the very likes of Plato himself. The dishes were put together by the writings of Plato in his Dialogues (how cool!). I felt as if I was stepping into a dialogue between past and present. We sat down not just to eat, but to share in something older, something whispered through centuries of Greek tradition.

We began with a lettuce salad, crisp and simple, just as it might have been in ancient Athens. Alongside it came beetroot, vivid and earthy, once said to be the favourite of Aphrodite herself. She supposedly ate it to preserve her beauty – and looking around, under the Athenian evening light, it almost seemed plausible; for the Greeks are truly beautiful creatures.

Then came the mains: soft, tender artichokes, the “food of the Olympians,” their leaves unfolding like myth. There were white beans, stewed and rich, said to be the preferred dish of Hercules – humble, hearty, and satisfying. And of course, souvlaki, skewered meat roasted and seasoned, smoky and timeless. There was a choice of chicken and pork, and I asked if I could have both – and to my utmost delight, the host (the President of the entire conference who enlightened us with the background of this dinner) said, “she is still a growing child, she can have both”. Me a growing child! But I’ll take whatever compliment I get at my age.

There was also bread, and mountain tea, and wine of course – which one is supposed to mix with water because if not, one is a barbarian – so said the host. I guess I am a barbarian and will always remain so, because I did not mix my wine with water. But all the time I ate dinner and drank wine, I could literally feel the same spirit as the ancients once did in their symposia – not only to eat, but to reflect, to laugh, and to live slowly, amid a good company of people.

I was high on white wine, but managed to get back to the hotel alright. But then – but then something happened, which I’m not prepared to talk about right now. Perhaps someday. But now right now.

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