Athens - Day 3 (Part 2)

 15 July 2025

The flag of Greece has the cross which represents 99% of its 10 million inhabitants who are orthodox Christians, and four white and five blue alternating horizontal stripes, which in Greek makes up nine syllables, translated to mean: “Freedom or death!” So cool.

We walked past what is known as the Athenian Trilogy – three elegant buildings of ancient beginnings. The first is the National Library of Greece. With its grand marble staircase, Doric columns, and solemn façade, the National Library looks like it belongs in the age of Plato. Next, the University of Athens, which is the oldest university in modern Greece, founded just a few years after independence. Lastly, and arguably the most visually striking of the three, the Academy of Athens, which looked like it could have been airlifted straight from ancient Athens. Inspired by the classical architecture of the Parthenon, it features a pristine white marble portico with Corinthian columns, richly carved pediments, and statues of Athena (from whence Athens got its name!) and Apollo towering on columns to the left and right, with Plato and Socrates seated at the entrance. This is Greece’s highest research institution, modelled after Plato’s original Academy, blending philosophy, science, and the arts. It is both a tribute to ancient wisdom and a commitment to future innovation.

Then to the heart of modern Athens, Syntagma Square (‘Constitution Square’). This is where ancient history meets current affairs. Dominated by the Hellenic Parliament Building, the square is home to the Evzones, the ceremonial guards in pleated kilts and pom-pom shoes, who perform the changing of the guard with stoic dignity, which I witnessed yet again.

Then to the Panathenaic Stadium, originally built in the 4^th century BCE, during the time of the orator Lykourgos. The stadium was used to host the Panathenaic Games, a religious and athletic festival held in honour of Athena, the city’s patron goddess. In Roman times, it was rebuilt in marble by the wealthy benefactor Herodes Atticus, and it could once seat up to 50,000 spectators. Its full name today, Kallimarmaro – means “beautifully marbled,” a nod to its pure white Pentelic marble, the same material used for the Parthenon.

After centuries of neglect, the stadium was excavated and restored in the 19^th century, thanks to some Greek benefactors. It became the venue for the first modern Olympic Games in 1896. Today, it is the only stadium in the world built entirely of marble, and it holds the unique distinction of having hosted both ancient and modern Olympic events. It remains the finishing point of the Athens Classic Marathon and a powerful symbol of Greece’s contribution to world sport and culture.

Then across the National Gardens of Athens again. There was a statue of Alexander the Great on his beloved horse, Bucephalus. He is one of many historical figures that I admire. We strolled along something known as the Zappeion Hall, built in the 19^th century to serve as the first building dedicated to the modern Olympic Games. With its grand columns and central rotunda, it's both stately and serene, a place where political meetings, exhibitions, and quiet moments beneath the citrus trees coexist. There was a French delegation being hosted here this evening, as recited by the guide – many important looking cars with equally important looking drivers dotted the car park, all with embassy/international/UN-looking number plates.

We passed by Hadrian’s Arch, a monumental marble gateway in Athens, built around 131 AD to honour the Roman Emperor Hadrian. Located near the Temple of Olympian Zeus, it marked the symbolic boundary between the ancient city of Theseus and the new Roman quarter developed under Hadrian’s rule. The elegant structure features Corinthian columns and two inscriptions, one facing the Acropolis declaring, “This is Athens, the ancient city of Theseus,” and the other, “This is the city of Hadrian and not of Theseus,” emphasizing the emperor’s contributions. Today, the arch stands as a striking symbol of the blend between classical Greek heritage and Roman influence in Athens.

And then, up the Acropolis hill. There are timings that we must follow, due to the crowds. Luckily we had our guide who spoke Greek and cut through the lines. The first thing we saw was the Propylaea. This is the monumental gateway to the Acropolis, impressive even today as you ascend the stone path toward the sacred hill. With its massive marble columns and harmonious proportions, it sets the tone for what lies beyond. In ancient times, entering the Acropolis through the Propylaea was a ritual, a transition from the earthly to the divine.

Perched like a delicate jewel on a bastion to the right of the Propylaea, the Temple of Athena Nike honours Athena as the goddess of victory. It’s small, Ionic, and graceful, with friezes that once told of military triumphs. In a way, it’s the softest voice among the Acropolis monuments, but also one of the most elegant.