Such is life

 You think it's something.

He thinks it's nothing.

It really doesn't matter.

Life goes on.

Whether you like it or not.

What choice do you have?

Accept it and move on.

The sooner the better.

Japan - Day 6 (Part 2)

Japan – Day 6 (Part 2)

27 May 2024

Senso-ji (‘Senso’ is an alternative reading for Asakusa and ‘ji’ means temple) is Tokyo’s most famous and popular temple. Built in the 7^th century, it is also one of its oldest, although the current buildings are post-war reconstructions. Asakusa Shrine, also known as Sanja-sama, was built during the Edo Period and survived the WW2 air raids of 1945. The shrine’s festival, the Sanja Matsuri, is one of Tokyo’s most spectacular and popular. The festival takes place in late spring and sees the surrounding streets closed to traffic throughout the day. It is held every year on a weekend in mid-May, with the last festival taking place from 19 to 21 May 2024.

The first thing that greets you is the Kaminarimon which is the outer of two large entrance gates that ultimately leads to the Senso-ji. It has a huge lantern in the middle, just under 12 m tall and 11.5 m wide. The Kaminarimon was first built in 941 by Taira no Kinmasa, a military commander. It was originally located near Komagata but was reconstructed and placed in its current location in 1635. At this time it is believed that the statues of Raijin (God of Thunder on the left) and Fujin (God of Wind on the right) were first placed on the gate. The gate has been destroyed many times throughout the ages. Four years after its relocation, the Kaminarimon burned down, and in 1649 Tokugawa Iemitsu rebuilt the gate along with several other of the major structures in the temple complex. The gate burnt to the ground in 1757 and again in 1865. The Kaminarimon’s current structure dates from 1960.

On the other side of the same gate is the statue of Kin-Ryu (a goddess, 2.74 m high and weighing about 200 kg), and Ten-Ryu (a god, 2.93 m high and weighing about 250 kg), who are both personifications of the dragon god symbolizing Senso-ji. They are believed to be the guardian deities of Senso-ji.

The second or inner gate is known as the Hozo-Mon Gate, also said to be first built in 942 by Taira no Kinmasa. Two wooden Nio (Deva Kings) statues are installed on the left and right sides. Because of this, the gate is also sometimes called the Nio-mon (Deva Gate). The statue on the left is known as Ni-Ou opened mouth style, whereas the statue on the right is known as Ni-Ou closed mouth style. Both are made of cypress and are 5.45 m tall and weigh about 1,000 kg each.  They are also guardian deities of Senso-ji. This gate was also burned down and rebuilt many times. The temple gate rebuilt in 1649 was a two-storey tower gate, but was unfortunately burned down during the air raids in 1945.

The shrine itself was lovely and I said a prayer for what it was worth. There was also a beautiful pagoda, a smaller bronze pagoda built based on a Buddhist text called the Sutra of Casket Seal Dharani, as well as a bronze seated Buddha known officially as the Bronze Seated Amida Nyorai Statue, said to be the Buddha who teaches Buddhism to those who have passed away and attained rebirth in the Pure Land, the Western Paradise of Ultimate Bliss.

From the outer Kaminarimon to the inner Hozo-mon, lies the Nakamise-dori shopping street. It stretches over approximately 250 m lined by almost 90 shops, which offer local specialties and the usual array of tourist souvenirs. Of course none of them were opened at the ungodly hour of 7.30 am so while I missed the opportunity of buying some last-minute souvenirs, perhaps it was a blessing in disguise that I missed the opportunity of buying some last-minute souvenirs.

From this street I could catch a glimpse of the Tokyo Skytree, a broadcasting and observation tower which at 634 m, is the tallest tower in Japan and the third tallest structure in the world after Merdeka 118 (678.9 m – I didn’t even know this!) and the Burj Khalifa (829.8 m).

Then I carefully retraced my steps and arrived back at the hotel without once getting lost, neither depending on technology nor human help. I am indeed very proud of myself. I bought some food and continued writing and to my horror, realised that my blog has also been possessed because some parts turn out as it usually does, but some other parts have a white background for no good reason, and despite my best efforts (including cursing the evil spirit back to damnation) nothing worked. So my blog entries for Japan are unfortunately a strange combination of black and white backgrounds which is not pretty, but at least still readable.

And then, all too soon, it was time for me to say goodbye to Japan! With all my initial misgivings and false starts, it turned out to be quite an enjoyable trip, and for this I have to thank myself for being the eternal explorer with adventure in her heart! 

Japan - Day 6 (Part 1)

Japan – Day 6 (Part 1)

27 May 2024

Couldn’t sleep last night and it was almost 1 am when I actually dozed off. My alarm was set to go off at 4 am and it did, but I snoozed it and then for whatever reason it did not ring again (it does that sometimes, no doubt possessed by the same evil technology spirit that has possessed my google maps and data roaming) and when I finally checked the time it was already 5 am. So a bit of a rush but I still managed to leave the hotel by 6.15 am.

Yesterday I had gotten directions from the hotel staff as to the way to the nearest Ginza line station. But just for fun, I turned on my google maps and lo and behold! The ‘start’ button function had magically re-appeared, on the very day when I did not need it. My own devices are gaslighting me and I have no doubt that the evil technology spirit possessing all my gadgets will one day send me straight to the lunatic asylum.

The human directions given to me were spot on (up yours, google maps!) so I didn’t get lost except for finding the station itself. Some stations here in Tokyo are positioned almost like a Speak Easy so that you can easily miss them if you do not have eyes in every direction, including at the back of your head.

On the way to the station, I came across 2 interesting landmarks. The first was an oldish-looking house with a beautiful small flower garden in front. According to the board stationed in front of this house, in 2011 during the process of conservation of the former Residence in Tokyo for the Yi Imperial Family, the brick-coursework foundation of the former Western-style residence for Prince Kitashirakawa was discovered. These grounds, which had been the site of the main residence in Edo of the Kii Tokugawa Family, were gifted during the Meiji era to Prince Yoshihisa Kitashirakawa.

In 1884, a grand Western-style residence of two-storey brick structure in Gothic architecture was built, designed by one Josiah Conder, a British architect who came to Japan in 1877 as a professor of architecture at the Imperial College of Engineering, and who remained in Japan to the end of his days. In 1894, the residence was damaged by the Tokyo earthquake and part of the building was removed. In 1912, the Prince’s family was moved to a new residence. In 1930, the residence was re-built in the same original style it was first built for the Yi Imperial Family.

The second structure I saw was like a remnant of an old stone wall. According to the information board, the wall was part of the Akasaka-mon Gate constructed by Kuroda Tadayuki, the feudal lord of the Fukuoka Domain, Chikuzen Province (current day Fukuoka Prefecture), in 1636. The gate kept watch over Akasaka (Red Hill) Edo Castle. The gate was the starting point for the Yakurazawa Highway connecting Edo and Kanagawa. The towers and other structures were demolished in 1871, and the stone walls were also demolished in the period from the late 1890s until around 1906. The remains of the embankment and moat were designated as a National Historic Site in 1956, and named the Edo Castle Outer Moat Ruins.

I guess these are some of the things that one would miss if one takes the easy way out and hopped into a taxi. But then again, it’s impossible to see absolutely everything in Japan, or even Tokyo for that matter, within a week.

Anyway, I found the station with the help of some locals, and had a minor hiccup at the ticket machine but a kind local girl helped me out. Then I rode 14 stops and got out at Asakusa station, and within 2 minutes was at the entrance of the Senso-ji.

Japan - Day 5

Japan – Day 5

26 May 2024

Today is the day I present at the conference. For the first time since I arrived in Tokyo, I had a really good night’s sleep without setting my alarm. Yesterday I double-checked with the organiser as to whether it was ok if I just attended my session and I was doubly assured that it was ok.

So I spent the whole morning preparing for my presentation, getting suitably dressed, and heading out to the venue. I arrived in good time and for my particular session, there were a total of 3 miserable members in the audience. Worse, one of the presenters didn’t even bother to show up and when I enquired about this, I was informed by the organiser that this was a recurring problem faced by this particular conference proceedings. Does not sound like a very prestigious or professional conference to me but the boss insists that it is (and that is why I was allowed to attend) but just like in any job, I have to defer to people who know better (or think they do).

Anyway, the presentation went very well and on the way back I bought some food and beer from Family Mart and went back to my room to eat, write and rest. As I was doing some research I realised that there was one more place that I should visit, which is the Senso-ji temple, possibly one of the oldest temples in Japan. I contemplated going to the Senso-ji temple there and then, but decided against it when I remembered THE CROWD. So I decided to head out early tomorrow morning so that I can enjoy my last sightseeing activity in some relative peace. I also decided to be adventurous and use public transportation and my own legs tomorrow. Keeping my fingers crossed that I will not get lost.

Japan - Day 4 (Part 3)

Japan – Day 4 (Part 3)

Friday, 25 May 2024

After this exciting outing, I went to my last chosen destination for the day which was the Tokyo Imperial Palace. Built on the site of the former Edo Castle, the palace became the permanent home of the Imperial Family in 1869. There is a free tour to parts of the Imperial Palace (some parts are closed to the public as the royals are actually living there) but I didn’t manage to secure a spot as it was already full and of course, there was a CROWD. So I decided to just stroll around the outer parts of the palace. The surrounding area is also very beautiful, with manicured lawns and pretty topiary trees. It is also a popular place for joggers (I saw many on this bright Saturday morning) and why not, since the scenery is simply beautiful; it would inspire any jogger.

For over 250 years, Japan was ruled by the Tokugawa shogunate (the government established by the military class) during what was known as the Edo Period (Edo being the old name for Tokyo). The current Imperial Palace sits on the former site of Edo Castle. However, in 1868, the shogunate was overthrown, and Japan’s capital was moved from Kyoto to Tokyo, with the Imperial residence moving with it. The palace was destroyed during WW2 but rebuilt in a similar style afterwards. The large stone walls surrounding the palace are largely in its original form, and no doubt had an ancient feel to it, complete with a moat no less!

The important landmarks include the Main Gate which serves as the main, formal entrance to the Imperial Palace grounds; the iconic Nijubashi Double Bridge; and the Sakuradamon Gate completed in around 1620, which is the largest remaining gate of Edo Castle. The Great Kanto Earthquake in 1923 loosened some rocks but it has since been fortified, and so it remains for the most part as per the original.

Then there are also gardens. The Wadakura Fountain Park was built in 1961 to commemorate the wedding of Heisei Emperor Emeritus (1989-2019). The Kitanomaru Garden was once part of Edo Castle and later, a headquarters for the Imperial Guard until the end of WW2. It is now the location of the Science Museum and Nippon Budokan, a 1964 Olympic venue that also hosted the Beatles in 1966. The Tayasumon Gate found within this park was built in 1636, during the Edo period. The East Gardens of the Imperial Palace was developed concurrently with the construction of the Imperial Palace complex, and has been open to the public since 1968. The Imperial Palace Outer Garden (Kokyo Gaien) used to be the residences of the members of the shogun’s council of elders. After the Meiji Restoration, it was temporarily used for government offices and barracks of the Meiji government, and from 1877-1887 was developed into an open space, and has remained so to this day.

And then I was done for the day, at 11 am! Considering that I had been out from 5.30 am, I think this was quite an accomplishment. I managed to finish everything fast because (i) I avoided crowds by going super early; and (ii) I took a taxi for my own convenience.

Then I bought some lunch from Family Mart (karaage chicken with rice, a sandwich for dinner, and 2 cans of beer and headed back to the hotel. I tried to take a nap but was plagued by unsettling dreams which included, of all persons, Michael Jackson (?!) so I gave up after a while and sat down to write my activities in Japan which so far I had no time to do.

Then in the evening I headed out to the conference venue as they were having a cultural show on how to wear a kimono which I thought would be quite interesting. Here I registered for the conference for the first time (it actually started on 23 May) and then attended the event which was quite nice to see. I learned that wearing a kimono, especially for ladies, is not at all easy and takes a lot of work. The lady who gave the demonstration told us the sad reality of today which is that the kimono is fast growing out of fashion in Japan. And so too, I guess many other traditions of many other cultures around the world, all consumed by fast-paced development and modernity so that there is no time to savour the traditions of the past.

Then back to the hotel for dinner (sandwich) and beers, and then strangely I felt sleepy at 9.30 pm and so I went to bed. I think I deserve some sleep after 3 days of full activities in Japan.

Japan - Day 4 (Part 2)

Japan – Day 4 (Part 2)

Friday, 25 May 2024

The path leading to the shrine was indeed very beautiful, with green lush trees and plants as far as my eyes can see. On the way, I saw barrels of wine consecrated at Meiji Jingu, which had been offered by the wineries of Bourgogne in France in the spirit of world peace and amity and continued friendship between Japan and France. This is in keeping with the Meiji period’s policy of ‘Japanese Spirit and Western Knowledge’ to learn from the best of Western culture and civilisation while keeping Japan’s age-old spirit and revered traditions. In promoting modernization, Emperor Meiji embraced many features of western culture in his personal life such as donning western attire, eating western food and enjoying wine with it. A poem by Emperor Meiji reads:

By gaining the good and rejecting what is wrong,

It is our desire that we’ll compare favourably

With other lands abroad.

At the opposite side of the barrels of wine, there are barrels of sake wrapped in straw, which are offerings by various sake brewers wishing to show their respect to the Emperor and Empress.

At the shrine itself, there were two big camphor trees planted in 1920 at the time of the enshrinement of Meiji Jingu, and are considered to be sacred. Well known as Meoto Kusu or Husband and Wife, the coupled trees have become a symbol of happy marriage and harmonious life within the family.

And then I was done and off I went (yes, by taxi) to the Tsukiji Outer Market. Honestly, I thought this would be a sort of fresh fish market selling all kinds of fresh seafood, with live demonstrations of local fishmongers cutting salmon and tuna and octopuses, but I was only half correct, as it was much, much more than that! Sometimes luck (or as I would like to believe, the travelling gods which I sort of believe in although I generally do not believe in any kind of God and yes, I know I am all kinds of contradiction and so what!) is really on my side and I would like to pat myself on the back for choosing to go to this place.

Before 2018, this was the largest wholesale fish and seafood market in the world. It opened on 11 February 1935 as a replacement for an older market that was destroyed in the 1923 Great Kanto earthquake. Then it was closed on 6 October 2018, with wholesale operations moving to the new Toyosu Market. So you see, I was partially correct in my wild imaginings of professional fishmongers slicing salmon, tuna and octopus before my very eyes. Except that I was a few years too late.

But! There were all kinds of fresh seafood sold here (salmon, tuna, cod, thorny crab, soft shell crab, eels, lobster, prawns, octopus, scallops, oysters, and dried seafood. But the place was much more than that as it sold all kinds of other stuff such as vegetables (really??), souvenirs, nuts, sushi, and all kinds of ready to eat stuff. I really enjoyed myself looking at the myriad of food choices available to me. Here I bought an array of assorted nuts, including wasabi green peas which I intend to give to my father who is a squirrel (who loves nuts) just like me.

(Have I ever written about how I am every bit my father’s daughter? And how my mother cannot accept this because she (in my view, mistakenly) invested in her two sons who turned out to be far less interesting than her only daughter? It’s no secret but not an appropriate story here).

Then I decided to be adventurous (why not?) and try Tamagoyaki (a type of Japanese omelette made by rolling together several layers of fried beaten eggs, often prepared in a rectangular omelette pan called a makiyakinabe or tamagoyaki. The word “tamago” means egg in Japanese, and the word “yaki” means to be cooked over direct heat) and Takoyaki (a ball-shaped Japanese snack made of a wheat flour-based batter typically filled with minced or diced octopus (tako), tempura scraps (tenkasu), pickled ginger (beni shoga), and green onion (negi), brushed with takoyaki sauce and mayonnaise and then sprinkled with green laver (aonori) and shavings of dried bonito (katsuobushi)).

The Takoyaki I have tried before in Malaysia but this one in Tsukiji Outer Market was really, really good! The Tamagoyaki I never tried before and whilst good, I found it a bit strange as it tasted a bit sweet which I didn’t expect an omelette to be. So altogether I find that the food in Japan (teriyaki, ramen, soba) is much more delicious than what we can find in Malaysia, but sushi and miso taste almost the same as what we can find in Malaysia. This I find not surprising at all, because I find that generally, the food in the country of origin always taste better than when it is sold outside that country. So, for eg, even the vegetarian food in India taste a LOT better than any Indian food I have tried in Malaysia. In other words, I can actually visualise myself being a vegetarian in India, but not in Malaysia.

Japan - Day 4 (Part 1)

Japan – Day 4 (Part 1)

Friday, 25 May 2024

I woke up at 4 am again this morning. After two gruelling days of walking around Tokyo and beyond, I actually wanted today to be a lazy day as my plan was to visit some places within Tokyo itself. But after reading a bit about the places I wanted to go to, I decided to start out really early to avoid the disastrous crowds who will no doubt wish to see the same places that I wished to see.

So I left at 5.30 am by taxi (yes I know, I am a spoilt brat but comfort over aching legs, anytime!) to visit the Hachiko statute at Shibuya. I read that there would usually be a long line of tourists waiting for their turn to take a picture with Hachiko. Since it was about 5.45 am, the place was completely empty except from some local youngsters whom I guess were hanging out there all night, by the looks of their party clothes but I may be wrong. Anyway, Hachiko was all mine! I thought about my own girls and whether they would mourn my death should they outlive me. I quickly dismissed this sentimental thought because my dogs, especially the Fatty Pup, will be happy as long as they are fed. Don’t think they will be missing me anytime soon.

Next, I wanted to go to the Meiji Jingu Shrine which is about a 20 minute walk away. Since I haven’t solved the mysterious disappearance of the ‘start’ function on my google maps, I accosted an unsuspecting local to ask for the general direction of the shrine before heading out. This time I was successful in finding it without getting lost along the way! The following information is from the pamphlet available at the shrine.

The Meiji Jingu is a Shinto shrine. Shinto is called Japan’s ancient and original religion, and it is deeply rooted in the way of Japanese life. Shinto has no founder, no holy book, and not even the concept of religious conversion, but Shinto values for example harmony with nature and virtues such as Magokoro (sincere heart). In Shinto, some divinity is found as Kami (divine spirit), or it may be said that there is an unlimited number of Kami. Kami can be seen in mythology, in nature, and in human beings. From ancient times, Japanese people have felt awe and gratitude towards such Kami and dedicated shrines to many of them. Meiji Jingu is dedicated to the divine souls of Emperor Meiji and his consort Empress Shoken (their tombs are in Kyoto).

Emperor Meiji passed away in 1912 and Empress Shoken in 1914. After their demise, people wished to commemorate their virtues and to venerate them forever. Thanks to the sincere heart of the people, this shrine with the forest was established on 1 November 1920. To create this forest, about 100,000 trees were donated from all over Japan, and planted by young volunteers. This forest was carefully planned to make an eternal forest that recreates itself. Now after about 100 years it cannot be distinguished from a natural forest, inhabited by many endangered plants and animals. The inner garden (Gyoen) is the only part that had existed before the establishment of Meiji Jingu. In fact, it was Emperor Meiji who designed the iris garden, small paths, and fishing spot specifically for Empress Shoken in order to give her fresh energy. How sweet.

Emperor Meiji is the 122^nd Emperor of Japan, enthroned in 1826. The current Emperor is the 126^th. When Japan was facing unprecedented conditions such as the opening of the country to the world after its long isolation and the end of the Tokugawa Shogunate, Emperor Meiji took the initiative to promote friendship with other countries, and to adopt Western culture and technology while preserving Japanese identity, and thus laid the foundations of modern Japan.

Meanwhile, Empress Shoken not only supported the Emperor behind the scenes but also devoted herself to promoting national welfare and women’s education. She was also concerned about world affairs, and she donated to a fund which is named after her as the ‘Empress Shoken Fund’, to the International Red Cross, which is still being used for international welfare activities until today.

Both the Emperor and Empress excelled in writing waka (traditional Japanese poems of 31 syllables). Their feelings towards the world, the country and the people, as well as ethical thoughts were expressed in their poems. Here is an example each:

By Emperor Meiji:

In the palace tower

Each and every window

Was opened widely,

And then in four directions

We viewed cherry in full bloom!

 

By Empress Shoken:

When a person keeps

Friends who are considered good,

It is most natural

That he, too, in his conduct

Is honest and trustworthy.

Japan - Day 3 (Part 3)

Japan – Day 3 (Part 3)

Friday, 24 May 2024

The Peace Memorial Museum told a story of great woe, pain, suffering, misery and grief. Those within the radius of the atomic bomb blast who did not immediately perish, suffered horrific injuries of severe burns, loss of limbs and thereafter, side effects from radiation exposure such as internal bleeding, cancer, etc. It was enough to bring tears to my eyes because whatever wrongs Japan did during WW2, no human being deserves to undergo such horrific pain and suffering on a large scale. Because the bomb area was so large, many women and children were also affected which is something unacceptable for me.

The surviving victims of the bomb, known as hibakusha, said “No one else should ever suffer as we have.” As a response to the hibakusha’s appeal, the epitaph on the Cenotaph for the A-bomb victims reads: “Let all the souls here rest in peace; for we shall not repeat the evil.”

After leaving the museum with a heavy heart, I walked around the grounds of the museum to see the various other monuments dotting the landscape. These monuments include the Monument of Prayer (to offer prayers for peace to comfort the spirits of the dead, those who died for their country in various crises including WW2), the Pond of Peace (encircling the Cenotaph for the A-Bomb victims) and the Flame of Peace (symbolising the universal desire for a world free from nuclear weapons), the Children’s Peace Monument (in memory of all children who died as a result of the atomic bombing) and the Zero Milestone of Hiroshima City.

The Zero Milestone was the intersection of the main overland traffic routes and also used as a main stop in water transport on the Ota river and formed the centre of the Hiroshima Castle town. At the time, it was also the site of an official bulletin board, and a stable was located nearby along with official lodgings and private inns. As a result, the distance from Hiroshima was always measured from this point. When the prefectural system was established in 1871 following the Meiji Restoration, a wooden pillar was set here as the zero milestone of Hiroshima Prefecture. After the municipality system was established in 1889, the spot was marked with a stone pillar as the zero milestone of Hiroshima City.

The last thing I visited at the museum grounds was the Hiroshima Peace Memorial (Genbaku Dome), which is a World Heritage Site. This building now known as the A-bomb dome was designed by Czech architect Jan Letzel. Completed in April 1915, the Hiroshima Prefectural Commercial Exhibition Hall soon became a beloved Hiroshima landmark with its distinctive green dome. While its business functions included commercial research and consulting services and the display and sale of prefectural products, the hall was also used for art exhibitions, fairs and cultural events.

Through the years, it took on new functions and was re-named the Hiroshima Prefectural Products Exhibition Hall, then the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall. As the war intensified, however, the hall was taken over by the Chukogu-Shikoku Public Works Office of the Interior Ministry, the Hiroshima District Lumber Control Corporation, and other government agencies. Then the world’s first atomic bombing took place at 8.15 am, 6 August 1945. The bomb exploded approximately 600 m above and 160 m southeast of the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall, ripping through and igniting the building, instantly killing everyone in it. Because the blast struck from almost directly above, some of the centre walls remained standing, leaving enough of the building and iron frame to be recognizable as a dome. After the war, these dramatic remains came to be known as the A-bomb Dome.

For many years, public opinions about the dome remained divided. Some felt it should be preserved as a memorial to the bombing, while others thought it should be destroyed as a dangerously dilapidated structure evoking painful memories. As the city was rebuilt and other A-bombed buildings vanished, the voices calling for preservation gathered strength. In 1966, the Hiroshima City Council decided to preserve the building and in 1996, the A-bomb Dome was registered on the World Heritage List as a historical witness conveying the horror of the first use of a nuclear weapon, and as a world peace monument appealing continually for lasting peace and the abolition of such weapons.

And then I was done and made my way back to the Hiroshima station, where I took the Shinkansen from Hiroshima to Shin-Osaka on the Sakura line, and then transfer at the Shin-Osaka station to Tokyo on the Hikari line. I reached Tokyo at approximately 9.30 pm and finally reached the hotel at about 10.00 pm. What a tiring, emotional day!

Japan - Day 3 (Part 2)

Japan – Day 3 (Part 2)

Friday, 24 May 2024

The Kyoto Imperial Palace or Kyoto Gosho was the residence of the Japanese emperors from as early as the 8^th century (794) until 1868-9 when the capital was moved to Tokyo during the Meiji Restoration period. The Emperor’s residential inner palace (dairi) was located inside the greater palace (daidairi), a large, walled complex that included the ceremonial buildings, government offices and the inner palace. Unfortunately, the palace has also been destroyed by many fires, and had to be rebuilt, with the current palace reconstructed in 1855.

The Kyoto Imperial Palace consists of 2 carriage porches for entrance and exit on a carriage, and a main gate (Kenreimon). It also has waiting rooms where visitors are allocated rooms according to their ranks. In descending order, these are the Room of the Tigers, the Room of the Cranes, and the Room of the Cherry Blossoms, named after the paintings that adorn the sliding doors of each of the rooms. Then there is the Hall for State Ceremonies (Shishinden) where important state ceremonies such as the enthronement of the emperor were held.

The Charter Oath, a five-article statement outlining the aims of the reign of Emperor Meiji, was promulgated from this building in 1868. This Oath came to be regarded as the first constitution of modern Japan. The building has been used for the enthronement of the Emperors Meiji (1868), Taisho (1915) and Showa (1928). Then there are the Emperor’s and Empress’ Thrones, the Hall for Ceremonies (for rites and rituals, important religious observations and political affairs), and the Palace for Ceremonies and Imperial Audiences (Kogosho).

The Kogosho was the place to hold ceremonies and for imperial audiences with members of the governing samurai class (buke). The building is famous as the place where discussions were held on how to deal with the Tokugawa Shogun in 1868 during the Meiji Restoration. There are 2 pretty gardens, a Palace for Study and Other Ceremonies (for academic events, waka (a type of poetry in classical Japanese literature) poetry gathering, etc) and the Imperial Residential Palace which is the living quarters of the emperor.

And then I was done, and there was actually one other place I wanted to go to in Kyoto which was the Nijo Castle, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was constructed starting 1601 by the Tokugawa Shogunate until 1868 when the shogunate ended and was replaced by the Imperial Court, whereby the castle became imperial property and was disused by 1939. Unfortunately, I ran out of time so I had to give this a miss, so sad. But it’s my fault for being overly ambitious.

Then a mad rush back to the Kyoto station where I caught my next Shinkansen to Hiroshima. But I had to get out at the Shin-Osaka station which was one stop away from Kyoto, as I had to transfer to another line from Shin-Osaka to Hiroshima on the Sakura line. Here I just about had enough time to buy something to eat, and I bought sushi which tasted no different from the sushi we get in Malaysia. Upon arriving in Hiroshima, I immediately headed to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. The following is some of the information I gathered from the museum.

Hiroshima was originally a castle town which became the hub of the Chugoku Region during the Meiji Period. The first Sino-Japanese War (1894-1895) made Hiroshima an important military base, where the Imperial Headquarters (primary command centre) was established, with Ujina Port utilised largely for military purposes. Each time Japan took military action, troops gathered in Hiroshima for dispatch to battle. Military facilities expanded year after year.

Hiroshima was also a leading education city, boasting the only Higher Normal School outside of Tokyo. Moreover, the accumulation of manufacturing between the world wars developed it into an industrial city. The Manchurian incident of 1931 escalated to a full-scale war with China in 1937. In 1941, Japan started the Pacific War against the United States, the United Kingdom, and their allies. The entire city of Hiroshima was caught up in the war effort. As the tide of war gradually turned against Japan, the United States launched intense air raids against the Japanese mainland, and at 8.15 am on August 6, 1945, it dropped the atomic bomb on Hiroshima.

Japan - Day 3 (Part 1)

Japan – Day 3 (Part 1)

Friday, 24 May 2024

I woke up at 4 am this morning and was out by 5.30 am to go to the Tokyo Station to catch the first Shinkansen. It’s a good thing I arrived early, because trying to get my reserved tickets was a challenge, I was given the run around and had to wait in line at every counter (yes, there was already a line at 6 am) and at the last correct counter I was told to get my reserved tickets from the machine. Luckily I managed to figure it out considering that it was a MACHINE and therefore not my friend.

And so this is what I realize about the Japanese. They are good, polite, efficient people but they are very compartmentalised, in that they only do what they are told to do, although no doubt they do it well. This is a bit like Singaporeans but with much more humility. In other words, they don’t seem to exercise any discretion for eg since JR is collaborating with Shinkansen, I’m sure the officer at the JR counter could just as well have told me to get the reserve tickets from the machine. But he did not. He told me to go to the Shinkansen counter, because I am taking the Shinkansen, not a JR line train.

Anyway, the lovely MACHINE decided to cooperate with me today and I got all my reserve tickets at one go, yay! And then I sat in the Shinkansen, Hikari line to Kyoto. I tried to look out for Fuji Mountain but unfortunately I fell asleep.

At about 9 am I arrived in Kyoto, the capital city of Kyoto Prefecture in the Kansai region of Honshu, with a population of about 1.5 million. Kyoto is one of the oldest municipalities in Japan, and was for a long time the capital of Japan, having been chosen in 794 as the new seat of Japan's imperial court by Emperor Kanmu (Japan’s 50^th Emperor). In 1868, Tokyo replaced Kyoto as the capital city.

In Kyoto, I wanted to see three things and as it was a rush as I had another Shinkansen to catch at about 12 pm, I took a cab to the Kiyomi-zudera temple at the Higashiyama District. This temple is situated on a hill, so I was dropped off at the foothill. There was a crowd. Crowds are really not good when one is rushing. As I walked up the hill at a relatively fast pace, I had to zig-zag my way in between the numerous tourists who were mingling about without a care in the world. Along the roads there were many shops and restaurants, which had been catering to tourists and pilgrims for centuries. These shops were selling various local specialties such as pottery, sweets, pickles, souvenirs, etc. The souvenirs looked nice but I had no time to stop and browse.

Then in about 10 minutes (slightly longer due to the crowd), I reached the temple. Kiyomi-zudera literally means ‘Pure Water’, and derives its name from the nearby Otowa waterfall where the temple was constructed in about 780. One of the many charms of this temple is that it was built without using a single nail in the entire structure. Unfortunately it has been destroyed several times by fire, and rebuilt each time. Today, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Kiyomizudera is best known for its wooden stage that juts out from its main hall, 13 m above the hillside. During the Edo period, there was a tradition that if one survived the 13-m jump from the stage, one’s wish would be granted. About 234 jumps were recorded during this period, and of the jumpers, 85.4% survived, until the practice was finally prohibited in 1872. The stage affords nice views of the numerous cherry and maple trees below that erupt in a sea of colour in spring and fall, as well as of the city of Kyoto in the distance.

The main hall houses the temple’s primary object of worship, a small statue of the eleven faced, thousand armed Kannon Bodhisattva, or the Goddess of Mercy. Large verandas and main halls were constructed at many popular sites during the Edo period to accommodate large numbers of pilgrims.

The temple complex includes several other shrines, among them the Jishu-jinja Shrine, dedicated to Okuninushi, a god of love and “good matches”. This Shrine possesses a pair of “love stones” placed about 10 m apart, which if one can walk from one stone to the other with one’s eyes closed implies that one will find true love. Obviously I did not try this because I have come to accept that God and true love are fictitious creations of humanity.

Beneath the main hall is the Otowa waterfall, where three channels of water fall into a pond. Visitors can catch and drink the water in tin cups, which is believed to have wish-granting powers. Each stream’s water is said to have a different benefit, namely to cause longevity, success at school and a fortunate love life.

Then I made my way downhill among the throng of slow-moving visitors to catch a taxi to my next destination, which is the Kyoto Imperial Palace. My taxi driver was a cute old Japanese man who was very friendly and kept talking to me in Japanese, although I told him I didn’t understand the language. However, I did my best in trying to accommodate him and part of me wished I knew at least basic conversational Japanese because he was a really nice, jovial, cute old man. I also realise that people are much more friendly away from Tokyo. I guess big cities have a nasty way of eating one up inside out and making one serious and reserved.

Japan - Day 2 (Part 2)

Japan – Day 2 (Part 2)

Thursday, 23 May 2024

After lunch we went to the last destination of the day, which was the Arakurayama Sengen Park Area, in particular to see the Kawaguchi Sengen Shrine and the Chureito Pagoda. This required a short (15 min altogether) trek uphill, either by stairs or by trail. I took the trail and in 5 minutes we reached the shrine.

However, it took us another 10 minutes to reach another point which had the Chureito Pagoda, with breathtaking views of Mount Fuji. Luckily it was still doable, albeit slower now for me as I am older and heavier. The official name of the Chureito Pagoda is the Fujiyoshida Cenotaph Monument, and it was built in 1958 to enshrine the 960 citizens from Fujiyoshida who died in the wars which occurred after 1868 (the First Sino-Japanese War, the Russo-Japanese War, WW1 and WW2).

After this we headed back to the city, to a place called Shibuya to be exact. I asked the guide if she could recommend some shops where I could buy souvenirs, and she mentioned a shop called Don Quixote (I promise she pronounced it donkey-hotey which caused a bit of confusion on my part) which sold all sorts of souvenirs and there were two outlets nearby.

They were not nearby. Or maybe they were and I just got lost. Earlier while chatting with some of the other tourists, I began to realise that the place where I was staying (Hanzomon), which is near to where the conference takes place, was a business district, so lesser people. The real touristy areas are Shibuya, Shinjuku, Shinagawa. Again, there was this feeling of failure in doing proper research (just like the JR pass) but anyway it was too late to do anything about it now. One of the tourists told me about the Shibuya Scramble Crossing which is a large squarish area, and when the light turns green people from four different corners meet in the middle in a sort of organised chaos and then disperse.

I thought this was something cool and maybe I could get to see it. I didn’t only see it; I became one of the scramblers, by complete accident thanks to my insufferable navigational skills. Anyway, finally, with a lot of false steps and pestering of locals, I found the store and bought some stuff. Shibuya is CROWDED. And I mean CROWDED. Nothing like Kuala Lumpur. In fact, the Shibuya Scramble Crossing is said to be the busiest intersection in the world. Lucky me. There are about 14 million people in Tokyo, and I felt like I met every one of them in Shibuya today. So then, this is Tokyo. Thanks, but no thanks. There and then I changed my mind and decided that I am actually quite happy in Hanzomon where there is a bit of peace and quiet.

Then I retraced my steps as I wanted to do the adventurous thing and take the subway which according to Google maps is the only train I need to take to get back to the hotel, which is about a 12- minute walk from the station I get off at. But of course, I got lost finding the station, and when I finally found it there was another nightmare trying to buy tickets because the station had various different lines, each operated separately. I found this out the hard way when I lined up at the first counter I saw and was told (through a translation app) that I was in the wrong counter and to go the counter with my subway name.

When I finally found the train line I was looking for, I lined up at the counter only to be told when it was my turn that I had to purchase tickets from the ticket booth. So I had to line up again. And finally, FINALLY! I got my tickets and rode the subway to my destination. Everything is very neat and tidy here, everyone is so polite and respectful and quiet. I didn’t hear people talking loudly or hanging on their mobiles like they do in Malaysia. Well mannered and efficient, if a bit too serious. Not sure how I feel about that.

Then I got off and of course, I got lost again. I dunno what it is with me and google maps this time around. The last time I used it in 2019, I distinctively remember it having a ‘start’ function when I am walking so that if I am walking in the wrong direction, it will show me that I am walking in the wrong direction. This time around, the ‘start’ function has mysteriously disappeared. I have no doubts whatsoever that I am a technological dinosaur and I must be missing some function that I should turn on. But I swear that sometimes, for no reason, my devices like to go berserk, for example the roaming function which I had activated for 7 days, but it chooses to come on and off as it so pleases.

So again, I had to ask for directions and I asked a couple of security guards, one of whom was an African and could speak English without any translation app thankfully (he could also speak Japanese plus his own native language whatever that is, how cool is that?) and finally I got back to the hotel dead tired but in one piece.

But my day wasn’t done yet as tomorrow I plan to take the Shinkansen for which I can use my JR pass but I still need to reserve my seats which I did, and which was not the end of the matter because the website duly informed me that I still needed to pick up my reserve seat tickets at the station tomorrow. Which means I have to be there extra early as my first bullet train leaves at 6.21 sharp.

Japan - Day 2 (Part 1)

Japan – Day 2 (Part 1)

Thursday, 23 May 2024

Today I have a full day tour to see Fuji Mountain and Lake Kawaguchi. As I still hadn’t figured out how to use the public transport system in Japan properly, I did the ‘spoilt brat’ shortcut of taking a taxi to the meeting point, which was somewhere in Shinagawa.

It was about a 2-hour drive by bus to the Lake Kawaguchi area, and on the way I saw the Tokyo Imperial Palace (more about this later) and the Tokyo Tower. The Tokyo Tower was built in 1958 and reaches a height of about 333 m. It is a broadcasting tower, and was once the tallest tower in Tokyo, but was overtaken by the Tokyo Skytree Tower (634 m) in 2012.

Heading towards the lake, we could already see the easily recognisable Mount Fuji (about 3,777 m) from the bus, which was pretty exciting. According to our guide, the Shinto religion believes that there is divine spirit in everything, including in Mount Fuji, who is believed to be a goddess. So, on days that the mountain is covered by clouds, the goddess is said to be shy. Lucky for us, the mountain goddess was not shy today and we had beautiful views. Mount Fuji is inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2013 as “Fujisan, sacred place and source of artistic inspiration.”

Mount Fuji is still an active volcano, but it last erupted in 1707. The mountain is situated between the Yamanashi and Shizuoka prefectures. There are five lakes surrounding the mountain: Lake Kawaguchi, Lake Yamanaka, Lake Saiko, Lake Motosu and Lake Shoii. Once upon a time, there was only one vast lake, but was broken up due to volcanic eruptions, but surprisingly the depths of all five lakes remain the same.

About 11,000 years ago, a large amount of lava began to erupt from the west side of the top of the ancient Fuji mountain. This lava formed the new Fuji which is the main body of Mount Fuji. Since then, the tops of the ancient Fuji and the new Fuji are side by side. Then about 2,500–2,800 years ago, the top part of ancient Fuji caused a large-scale landslide due to weathering, and finally, only the top of the new Fuji remained. The eruptions also produced a network of caves made of hardened lava. The lava is loaded with iron and magnet.

At the northwest base of the mountain is the mysterious forest named Aokigahara, said to be haunted. In the 19^th century, this forest was one of many places poor families abandoned the very young and elderly. Many people go into this forest to commit suicide, which perpetuates the legend that it is haunted.

Our first stop was at what used to be a quaint little village now known as the Saiko Iyashi Village (Saiko Iyashi no sato Nenba). The area used to be called Nemba, Ashiwada Village with about 41 households mainly doing farming. In 1966, there was a typhoon and terrible mudslides which destroyed the entire village, except one house now known as the Watanabe historical house. Now it is turned into a tourist destination, where houses in the original style were re-constructed, and which now sold souveniers, silk, tea, and other touristy stuff. There were some lantern carps hanging at one place in the village, and the guide informed us that this was a dedication or a reminder to the children of the original village to be as strong as the carp because carps usually swim upstream against the currents.

Then on to Lake Kawaguchi, and on the way we passed the much smaller Lake Saiko. There are beautiful views of Mount Fuji from Lake Kawaguchi. There is also a very big and beautiful flower garden by the lake, with many flowers I had never seen before, including the nemophila or ‘baby blue eyes’ flower that is simply gorgeous and abundant. There was a souvenir shop selling the cutest stuff, and I chose a few items to buy but the line was SOOO long and since I had to be on time on the bus to the next destination, I had to give it up. So sad.

Next, to lunch, and I chose the traditional houtou noodles, a local specialty of the Fuji lake town. These noodles are large, flat noodles that resemble udon but are said to be prepared slightly differently, with a different shape and texture, more ‘mochi’ (sticky). It is cooked in miso broth and mine was served with vegetables and chicken. Unfortunately, I found this meal a little bland for my taste, I ordinarily stay away from all things soupy anyway (except rasam – yes, I am my father’s daughter).

Japan - Day 1

 Japan – Day 1

Tuesday, 21 May 2024 – Wednesday, 22 May 2024

It’s been a while since I travelled and so the nerves are kicking in. I am unsure about everything. Checked everything 5 times and still unsure. What a wuss I have become.

First time going to Japan, officially to speak at a conference but of course, also to sight see. Japan will be the 45^th country that I visit. There is only excitement to look out for but I am not excited, I know not why. I think the nerves just took over.

And I was not wrong to feel a sense of foreboding. It was a connecting flight I took (cheaper and better hours) which means that I had to stop for a while at Guangzhou airport in China. Here my lighter was confiscated. But I came prepared. I had one more in my checked-in luggage!

Upon arrival at the airport, I bought a Japan Rail Pass only to find out after I bought it that it is not usable for every public transport, only those covered by JR. How to tell the difference between JR lines and non-JR lines? Not sure. Great. I couldn’t help feeling that I made the wrong decision in purchasing the JR pass. The only good thing is that it can be used for the Shinkansen (bullet train) for indefinite amounts of time for the duration that the pass is active and since I was planning to use the Shinkansen for a day out, I guess it was ok. Or maybe I was just saying that to make myself feel better.

Anyway, it was a complicated combination of monorail, metro trains, subways and buses to my hotel and since I was already tired I decided to go against everyone’s advice (don’t use taxis in Japan, they are bloody expensive) and take a taxi to my hotel.

The hotel is very neat and tidy and very, VERY compact. Everything has a place, including full toiletries, a kettle, a fridge, a hairdryer – but that means that I have hardly room to walk. Which is ok, I guess, considering I would be out most of the time.

And then the horror. I found that my checked-in luggage had been broken into (literally the lock on the bag was missing) and a lovely note on a blue piece of paper awaited me – telling me that my back-up lighter had been confiscated by the Chinese.

What is this obsession with lighters?? I never heard of a lighter igniting any bombs or other explosive devices (other than dynamites but really??). I have flown with lighters both in my carry-on (sometimes confiscated) and checked-in luggage (never before confiscated) many, many times before. In contrast, mobile phones are known triggers for bombs but I don’t see anyone confiscating these! Ridiculous.

I guess I was feeling overwhelmed. Alone in a foreign country, with my privacy invaded in such an uncouth manner (so that my one weakness is seen as an act of terror no less) and no one to turn to. I had to take a minute and just sit down and calm myself.

And then I went for a walk around my hotel area, first to look for the hotel where my conference will be held, and second, just to see if there was anything interesting. It is quite a quiet area, with not that many eateries or people around. If this is Tokyo, then it’s really not as bad as I thought it would be. I came across an Indian restaurant named ‘Gajanan’, which I promptly took a photo of and sent to my father  who of course later proudly proclaimed that Lord Ganesha is everywhere in the world.

I also stumbled across my very first shrine in Japan, with copper torii gates, said to be constructed and dedicated by the people of the Kojimachi area in December 1844. There were cows adorning this shrine, as well as sculpted lions, and nightlights dating back to 1852.

Then I went to one of the many Family Marts and bought a teriyaki chicken and egg sandwich, and of course, a lighter! The food is surprisingly tasty here, and everything is very neat and tidy and organized. People are generally helpful but not very friendly in that although they will help you with directions and stuff, they do not readily smile and engage in conversation. I think it’s probably due to the language barrier.

People drive on the right side of the road (just like Malaysia) and so it makes it easier for me when walking. Also, the cars actually stop for pedestrians and cyclists at pedestrian crossings, and I think I’ve made more than one Japanese annoyed because I waited for them to pass but in Japan, I actually had the right of way.

Before heading back I had a pint of beer (Asahi) and called it a day.

Goodbye To What Could Have Been

A long-lost friend contacted me yesterday out of the blue to seek advice on (of all things!) husbands and children. Children more than husbands I decided NOT to acquire BY CHOICE so I was really at a loss as to why she would contact me for such advice, but I did my best in lending a sympathetic ear.

But that is not the reason for this blog. The reason is that this long-lost friend informed me that a mutual friend that we once knew had passed away some five years ago. Five years! And I had no idea.

Flashback to some 25 years ago when I was a freshie at university, living on campus, away for the first time from my family, in the big city for the first time, everything so new and urban and foreign. To say that I was awkward was an understatement. Those days students used to be ‘initiated’ in accordance with their race, something which was all but non-existent where I grew up, in rural Malaysia, at least amongst my peers. I couldn’t speak Tamil (my mother tongue) well although I am a proud Malaysian Indian. But that meant that I didn’t fit in and I was bloody awkward (still am).

Enter The Mutual Friend. He didn’t judge, he was oh-so-patient with me, he was the Reason to my Emotion, the Calm to my Turmoil, the Peace to my War, the Tranquility to my Anger, the Serenity to my Rebellion. He was the exact opposite of me and was thus perfect for me.

Obviously I had a crush on him. But nothing happened, due to what I can only describe as an intervention of a force bigger than the both of us. It was only after I graduated that I learned that he felt the same way about me. What got in the way was this stupid misunderstanding of me thinking that he liked someone else and so kept out of the way; and he likewise thinking that I liked someone else and so kept out of the way. But when all of this was finally revealed, I was already in a committed relationship at that time and so NOTHING continued to happen. And that was really the last time I ever saw him, a couple of years after I had graduated and had started working, and had a boyfriend.

We did keep in touch over the years, and at some point he did tell me that he was quite ill, going in and out of the hospital for long-ish periods of time, but in my mind I dismissed this due to what I can only now say was attributed to the arrogance of youth. We always said that we should meet up some time, but it never quite happened due to LIFE. And by life I really mean WORK which I seem to be doing all the time and which I should really stop but can’t seem to. Workaholic? A story for another day.

Anyway, we never did meet again after that last meeting when ALL was revealed and NOTHING happened, and he did, I guess, try to tell me over the years that he was more frequently ill which I carelessly discarded because you know, LIFE.

And now he is gone. Forever. I really don’t know what is wrong with me or whether any part of this is normal, but a part of me feels like I’ve dodged a bullet because had SOMETHING happened back when, my life would have been frequent visits to the hospital, watching someone I loved slowly wither away and die before my very eyes, and/or becoming a widow in my 40s.

Sometimes I myself cannot believe how callous I can be. But I believe in being honest and telling it as it is. These were my very first thoughts when my long-lost friend gave me this sad piece of information yesterday.

And then, once the selfishness and callousness left (I’m still not sure, but I attribute this as my survival instincts kicking in and creating these thoughts to make me feel better), my regret all through last night until now and I do not know for how long more, is that I didn’t even get the chance to say goodbye to The Mutual Friend who once was a big part of my life, who I may have fallen in love with, who I may have had a life with.

So now, I am just sad but I cannot turn back time. I cannot undo all the missed opportunities. I cannot do anything but to cry. I do not know how any of this works but if The Mutual Friend can read this somehow, sometime, I would like to tell him that he mattered a lot to me, and if things had been different, maybe SOMETHING could have happened instead of the NOTHINGNESS I feel right now. 😔

Let's rock and roll!

When I was 14 , my then best friend in school introduced me to Guns N’ Roses.  It was love at first sight (at first note?). I fell in love with the music, the lyrics, the vocals (oh the most beautiful vocals!) the guitars, the drums, the lifestyle, what they stood for (rebellion, anarchy, freedom), I wanted to be just like them.

I have never looked back. Music has always been a big part of my life. I grew up with songs all around me. I have been listening to music almost my entire life. All the different genres, how it changed from decade to decade to where it is now. I am open to every kind of music, I listen to and play classical composers (Beethoven and Bach are my favourites as I have heavy fingers) but I have forayed into jazz piano pieces as well recently. But above all, my heart has always been with rock and metal. Not too hardcore (Lorna Shore or Slaughter to Prevail is a bit too much for me) but somewhere in the middle (Guns N’ Roses and Metallica are among my favourites to this day!)

Rock/metal has always played an important part of my life, especially when I am sad or angry these are the songs that have gotten me through these tough times. Having been a fan of all things rock/metal for so long, at least since I was 14 I tended to dress a bit rock/metal with my signature black t-shirts, eyeliner, long hair and accessories which usually are on the darker side of things.

Recently I have been told on at least three occasions that the screen saver on my phone is unsavoury, my skull bracelet is provocative, my Metallica t-shirt is not suitable for work. Whatever happened to the quality of your work rather than how you look. I know what to wear when, certainly I will not be wearing rock/metal motifs when presenting a paper at a conference. But I see nothing wrong in a Metallica t-shirt for a staff meeting on a Friday. I guess I’m upset because what I wear has become who I am, rock/metal is very much a part of me and not just a passing phase or a fashion statement, it is who I was since I was 14, and still who I am now. So to criticize what I have on my phone or what I wear is to criticize me, which I take personally.

If you are one of those who are wholesome, God-fearing, no drugs, no alcohol, no tobacco, lullaby music, vegetables-are-good-for-you types, I’m really very happy for you. Please don’t impose your lifestyle on me, like I don’t impose my lifestyle on you.