To Mary Jane

For almost half of my life you were in it. Through university, jobs, relationships, shifting houses, trials and tribulations; you were always there in the background. A steady presence full of courage, strength, patience and love. 

For 19 years you hardly gave me any problems. You were everything I could ever want. So when you started deteriorating over the past year, I should have been more understanding, more patient, more gentle, more kind.

Instead, as you got worse and worse I became more and more irritated. I looked at you as a burden. I had more work to do which took up a lot of my time, and I blamed you for it. 

When I saw you yesterday in the sun panting with thirst, I didn’t immediately come to your rescue. Instead, I went out to run errands because I thought you would be around as usual and I would deal with you when I got back. It didn’t occur to me that you may have been there for quite some time and therefore dehydrated, since you could not get to the water by yourself anymore. Or maybe it did occur to me but I didn’t care because I was tired of taking care of you all the time and I wanted to be free again, even if for a just a little while.

By the time I came back you were already half way gone. You waited for me to hold you in my arms one last time before you left. It must’ve been painful and agonising for you but you waited. Patiently. That was how big your heart was. Despite all the times I was impatient with you, pulled you a little too hard because you were too slow in walking, left you on your own, not taking you out fast enough when you fell into the drain, procrastinating to clean you because I was fed up with the mess, grumbling, complaining, wishing you would just go - through all of that, your concern was still me and that I should see you one last time before you left.

I know you didn’t do anything deliberately. You were just getting old. Despite that, you tried your best to ease my burden. I know you did because that’s what you do. And I am a fool, a selfish, stupid fool who didn’t understand you. Who didn’t appreciate the greatest blessing in my life.

So wherever you are my darling Mary Jane, I hope you can find it in your big heart to forgive me. I could’ve loved you better, just like how you loved me. I hope you enjoyed your time with me. I hope you are happy now, because you deserve nothing but love and happiness. The truth is, you were too good for me. I am a better person today because of you. 

I promise to remember you as the blessing you were.

Europe 2019 - Day 52

27 June 2019, Thursday

Today we go home! 

As fun as it is visiting all these beautiful countries around the world, learning new cultures and history and trying new food and beers and making new friends and having a blast really, I really miss home, my dogs and the food, of course. Nothing like Malaysian food. After 40 countries, Malaysian food is still the best.

Travelling with someone is never easy. There are only 3, maybe 4 people that I would travel again with and if they’re not available, I’d rather go alone. Along this journey many people we met told us that there is nothing like travelling together to really test a friendship. And after 52 days of travelling together, I’m happy to report that my friend and I are still friends, so I guess we’ll really be friends for a long time to come.

Of course there were ups and downs along the way, disagreements, resentments, frictions, etc which I think is normal in any relationship. She is one of my oldest friends and I would be devastated to lose her as a friend. I may disagree with a lot of the things she does, or get irritated with her, but she is good people and I love her as only a childhood friend can. Would I travel with this friend again? All things considered, I would actually. I just have to continue being quiet and patient 😁.

I’m once again thankful that in this journey as well, nothing really untoward happened except that my friend lost her handphone. Apart from that, we were safe all the time and happy most of the time. Which is more than what many others in the world have and for that, I am grateful.

Of the 16 countries that we visited, my favourite country is Poland. The history of Europe as a whole is a sad one - mainly due to the two World Wars, but Poland to me is the underrated hero. The infrastructure, the people and their dogged determination and suitable politeness (although they could use some colour!), the landscape, the castles - it’s difficult not to appreciate this country. I will always have a soft spot for Poland, as I do for Ecuador and Peru. The friendliest people I find are the Croatians. 

And so I come to the end of my Europe trip. Back to reality, but right now, a happier reality because I have gained that much more experience that no one can take away from me. 

And already I look forward to my next big adventure on this journey we all call life. 

Europe 2019 - Day 51 (Part 3)

26 June 2019, Wednesday 

I insisted on going into the Hofbrauhaus as it represents the traditional life of the people of Munich for centuries past. The Hofbrauhaus is about 100 years old. There is a fest hall on the upper floor, where Hitler held some of his first speeches. It is still state-owned. There is a traditional band there playing mostly traditional Bavarian music, and it was quite interesting to see. I ordered a Hofbrau, the local beer served there and it came in a 1 litre stein. Yikes.

My friend was in a mood. She didn’t want to go to the Hofbrauhaus although it holds so many historic and traditional elements of Bavarian life. And this is the person who attempted to convince me that Piestany in Slovakia was a nice place and it is where all the locals go (a spa town- really! 🙄🙄🙄) but she will not go to a beer hall in Munich, where all the locals have been hanging out for centuries! This I will never understand. Almost 300 years of difference!!! Sometimes I get so irritated. But it’s normal I guess. 

So I had to finish my lovely beer in a rush. And it’s 1 litre so needless to say, I was as high as a kite. In this condition we then went to Residenz - Germany’s largest inner-city palace and former residence of Bavarian kings and rulers. The palace is considered to be one of Europe’s most important decorative art museums. 

And then to Theresienstrabe for dinner. I had traditional Bavarian egg pasta with a soft texture, fried with cheese, served with roasted onions and side salad. That’s what the menu says. Gastronomically it was bland of course (for my taste) and I couldn’t finish it, the sauce was heavy and after a while it becomes too much. A homeless looking man happened to pass by and asked for some money and I offered him my food which he ate. So no need to take away or throw away, thankfully. 

Lastly we went to a local gathering known as the Summer Tollwood. Apparently there is also a Winter Tollwood. It is something like a fun fair, with games to play, bands playing to audiences, food and beer, shops selling various knick-knacks - basically a place where the locals can hang out with friends in the summer.

Then finally we went back to the hostel, it was quite late about 10.30 p.m. The dorm was really REALLY hot. There was only one stand fan in the room for 6 people. Not enough and for the first time in Europe, I actually didn’t use my blanket. And even then, it was just so hot and stuffy that I didn’t get a peaceful sleep. 

And there it is! Our last day of fun and adventure in Europe!

Europe 2019 - Day 51 (Part 2)

26 June 2019, Wednesday 

And what a piece of luck! We happened to be right there at 5 p.m. when the clock chimes went off, so we were able to see a Bavarian jouster fighting a French one (the Bavarian wins, of course 🙄), followed by a Coopers Dance to keep the plague away. It was quite cool. We were really lucky as we just happened to be passing when the chimes went off, apparently it only chimes at 5 p.m. in the summertime; otherwise only at 11 a.m. and 12 p.m. 

Nearby the New Old Town was the Old Town Hall but it looked newer that the New Town Hall. Apparently it used to be 600 years old but is now about 60 years old because it was destroyed in WW II and had to be rebuilt. There was a Fish Fountain in the square, quite cute.

Then to Alter Peter or St Peter’s Church, Munich’s oldest parish church which is a Roman Catholic Church. Then to St Michael’s Church, a Jesuit Church and one of the largest Renaissance church in Europe in baroque style architecture. Next, we passed by the monument of Ludwig der Bayer, a bronze figure of Emperor Ludwig on horseback with his right hand raised, built in 1967. 

Then to Hofbrauhaus, one of the most popular beer halls in Munich. In 1516, Duke Wilhelm IV of Bavaria decreed the Purity Law, which rules that the only ingredients in beer must be barley, hop and water. Wheat was eventually allowed to be used. In 1906 the rest of Germany endorsed this law. Although this regulation was recently overruled by European law (causing major public outcry and calls to leave the Union!), German brewers pride themselves on sticking to it. 

The Beer Gardens came up after 1539, when it was forbidden to brew during summer, in order to avoid the fire hazards. Hence, huge cellars were built to store the booze brewed during winter. They were protected from sunlight with chestnut trees (as they have big leaves and grow fast), which is still found in most beer gardens today. 

When the Catholic Duke Wilhelm V realised that the only good beer available had to be imported from Lutheran provinces, he ordered to end heretic drinking and founded the “Court Brew”. It first opened in 1589 to produce booze for the Bavarian royals and their servants exclusively, but since they were an egalitarian bunch, they sold it to any willing buyer, even people of other faith. 

Now a bit about Oktoberfest. The first one was a wedding celebration (Ludwig I and Therese) in 1810. In honour of the bride the Oktoberfest grounds were renamed ‘Theresienwiese’. Now it is repeated every year. Oktoberfest always starts on the 2nd last Saturday of September and ends on the 1st Sunday of October, unless that happens to be October 1st or 2nd, then it ends on the 3rd. Beer comes in 1 litre ‘steins’.

Europe 2019 - Day 51 (Part 1)

26 June 2019, Wednesday 

Today we remain in Munich but we have to leave the AirB&B and go to the first hostel we stayed in in Munich. So in the morning we took our time getting ready and then walked to the tram station. We waited and waited but no tram. I saw many taxis passing but they were all speaking in German so we didn’t bother. Then one taxi driver insisted we take the taxi, explaining in broken English that there was an accident so the trams couldn’t pass and now these taxis are here to ferry passengers around to the main train station, for free. He was so insistent that we got in. He also asked one of the other passengers who could speak English to explain the situation to us. 

However, instead of the main train station, one station away from the main train station, he said he is letting us out. What the hell. Even the locals were nonplussed but what could you do. We had to alight but the passenger who explained to us in English told us which tram to take to the main station. So we then took the tram  to the main station (one station away) and then from there the train to the nearest stop to our hostel. 

What an adventure in the morning! With all our heavy luggages too! Luckily I had coffee and luckily we weren’t rushing  anywhere. We arrived at our hostel at 12 p.m. but check in was only at 2 p.m. so 2 hours to spare. I marked out the places to see on the city map, and did some blogging. Then we checked in and I am so lucky! I think it’s Ljuby luck 😬because there was 1 bunk bed available, upstairs and downstairs. Of course I took the downstairs because I hate upstairs and my friend claims she doesn’t care so she can have the upstairs. 

Settled, we went out to explore Munich for a bit. First we went to Karlsplatz, which is a square with a massive fountain. Some people have told me that Europe is experiencing a sort of heat wave right now. Indeed, the weather is really hot, and humid too but maybe not as humid as Malaysia. So we saw many of the locals walking and playing and getting themselves wet in the fountain. So cute. 

Then to 2 medieval gates; the Sendlinger Tor which is the well-preserved southern gate of the second city wall, and the Isartor which is the eastern gate to the former Salzstrabe.

Then to Marienplatz again, but this time to see the beautiful New Town Hall. This for me is the most beautiful building in all of Munich. It is still in its original architecture, somehow it managed to survive the bombings during the World Wars. It is most famous for its glockenspiel or mechanical clock or chimes, displaying a Bavarian knight’s tournament victory. Right below the knights were coopers (people who make barrels for beer and wine). 

There is a legend about coopers. Apparently there was a plague, and the people became afraid to leave their houses. This was not good for commerce and trade in the city, so the government asked the coopers to dance in the streets to induce the townsfolk to come out of their houses. It worked, and what is more, people who had the plague began to recover so coopers were also associated with having magical powers. The coopers’ dance has been maintained as a tradition, but only once in every 7 years. 

Europe 2019 - Day 50 (Part 4)

25 June 2019, Tuesday

Our final destination here in Salzburg was the Schlosspark with the Hellbrunn Castle or Palace. This place was created in the 1600’s as a residential villa much like Mirabell Palace. Hellbrunn has a lively yellow rendering and its front façade is fully symmetrical. We walked around the gardens which was quite pretty with many fountains (there was one with the statue of Neptune) and lakes (one with Siberian and white sturgeon fish in it). However, the main attraction was apparently the trick fountains but we didn’t get to experience that due to lack of time. 

Then, before heading back to the bus station, we stopped for food and a beer. I had currywurstand the beer was a seasonal draft beer known as Original Hofbrau from Salzburg. I’m actually not feeling very hungry today. Yesterday dinner was late and the food didn’t digest properly and as usual this would trigger reflux and all that nonsense 🙄. 

By the way, I’m really sick and tired of bread and sausages right now. No more for the foreseeable future. 

We arrived back in Munich at about 8.15 p.m. and then we went to the restaurant where our hostess was working as a waitress. Here we had some beers, and our hostess paid for them! How sweet. Then time to go home. My friend wanted to buy some groceries from Europe to take back to Malaysia, and initially she told me she would head out early the next morning to the supermarket. I told her I’d sleep in for a change. Supermarkets are really not my thing, but it’s like the twilight zone with my friend - once she enters, it is a thousand years before she exits 🙄.

However on the way home she told me there is a supermarket still open so for the last time I went to a supermarket in Europe. We bought 2 bottles of wine (one red and one white) as a gesture of gratitude for all her help. For breakfast tomorrow I bought instant noodles. No more bread. No more sausages. Enough is enough. 

Then, finally, home. I’ve managed to lose some weight while travelling but unfortunately not as much as I wanted to. So, when I return I vow to be slim. No excuses. But of course, after all the delicious Malaysian food which I have craved for these past 50 days 😁.

Europe 2019 - Day 50 (Part 3)

25 June 2019, Tuesday

Nearby was St Peter’s Abbey, originally constructed over old Christian remains in 696 by St Rupert and has stood in some form ever since. This Benedictine Monastery is the oldest in the German-speaking era and also holds the oldest library in Austria. The architecture has changed over the years to suit the various fashions of the eras, and now has a combination of Romanesque and Renaissance styles. The Abbey also has catacombs (hewn out of the rocks of Monchsberg and of early Christian origin) and a cemetery.

I also saw a water mill in this area. Here, the St Peter’s branch of the ‘Almkanal’ exits the fortress hill after a 400 metre long tunnel that was built between 1136 and 1143. In 1922, the mill-wheels were replaced by a turbine, which was in use until the shutting down of the Monastery Mill in 1966. A new installed mill-wheel is operating here since 2007. The mill-wheel produces electricity via a gear transmission and a generator. This electricity is in turn used to power the mill, which grinds the flour for the sourdough bread, which is a dark rye bread baked in a traditional log-fried oven.

From here you could see the Hohensalzburg fortress (on top of the Festungsberg Hill) in the distance. This is Central Europe’s largest, completely preserved fortress dating from the 11th century. It has been a major power base for the rulers of Salzburg since the 1000’s. Since its inception, the castle has undergone many transformations, additions and expansions including a Funicular Cable Car leading from the bottom of the hill. It is the oldest funicular in Austria, built in 1892. We didn’t go up to the fortress as we were a bit pressed for time.

Passing by the Salzburg University, we stumbled onto a street with many curious, unique and interesting signs outside the shop. It is a shopping street that offered a myriad of stuff - fine jewellery, fashion, antiques, traditional costumes, eateries and cafes. The most interesting for me was MaDonald’s, to see the modern, ubiquitous ‘M’ design in an antique-looking design was kinda cool. 

Walking a bit further we arrived at Karajanplatz,  with a “Horse Pond” (a statue of a man with a horse) which dates back to the 17th century. It was here that parade horses from the prince-archbishops’ stables used to be washed off and groomed.

Next, to St Blasius Church. Archbishop Frederick III proposed that a civic hospital be built in Salzburg in 1327. The hospital was to offer shelter for the sick and ailing. The townspeople provided the food for the patients, causing it to be called the "civic hospital". The church, built in 1330, was closely affiliated with the hospital. The Church was consecrated to St. Blaise, known as a benefactor and patron saint of throat ailments.

Europe 2019 - Day 50 (Part 2)

25 June 2019, Tuesday

Next, to Mozart’s place of birth, where Mozart was born on 27 January 1756. Then we passed the Collegiate Church which is the church of the University of Salzburg. It was built in Baroque style and is dedicated to the Immaculate Conception. It is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Historic Centre of Salzburg. It is now the parish church of people connected to the university. 

We also saw the Franciscan Church - one of the oldest churches in Salzburg. The first church on this site was erected in the 8th century. Between 1408 and 1450, a Gothic choir replaced the Romanesque choir. A slender Gothic tower was added between 1468 and 1498. The church was dedicated to the Virgin Mary and served as the parish church until 1635. It was ceded to the Franciscan Order in 1642. 

The we passed a strange and mysterious looking machine covered in splendid, ornate decor which had a few readings. I later found out that it is a Meteorological Pillar of the 19th century and dates to 1888. Measuring devices on the three sides give the temperature, the barometric pressure, and the humidity of Salzburg. A bronze plaque on the lower portion of one side lists the altitude as being 425.25 meters (1395.18 feet) above the Adriatic Sea.

Passing by the Salzburg Museum which is in a building known as the Residence, we arrived at St Michael’s Church, the oldest parish church in Salzburg's burghers' town. It served as a palace chapel and parish church up to the 12th century. In its double function the church was divided into two sectors: the upper sector was reserved for the emperor and his entourage and was accessed from the palace. The lower sector was accessed from the market square and open to the townsfolk. The principal altar is decorated with an impressive painting of the Archangel Michael conquering Lucifer, whilst the side altars are decorated with paintings of the two archangels, Gabriel and Raphael. Really cool. 

Nearby was Mozartplatz, a peaceful square dominated by an ornate bronze statue of Mozart that was unveiled in the presence of his sons in the 1800’s. Then Domplatz, which is sort of the Main Square with a view of the surrounding mountains. Here there was big sculpture of a man standing on a sphere behind a gigantic chess board (actually the man was small, the sphere was huge and gold).

Next we saw the Salzburg Cathedral, a baroque cathedral. This Cathedral has been demolished and rebuilt several times from its initial creation in 774 and now stands as a striking piece of architecture; the front facade has dual bell towers and outside sits the Marian Column. 

Europe 2019 - Day 50 (Part 1)

25 June 2019, Tuesday

Today we do a day trip to Salzburg, Austria - the birthplace of Mozart and the Sound of Music! It is about 2 hours by bus and it is cheaper to do it this way rather than stay in Salzburg as it is a really expensive city. Salzburg has possibly the best-preserved old town centre full of beautiful baroque architecture, which is why it is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

When we arrived at Salzburg we went to the first ticket machine we saw to buy a 24-hour ticket for the day. Then we went to the tourist information centre to get a city map and some information on the tourist attractions. It was then that we were told that we had bought the wrong 24-hour ticket. So that was 4 Euros gone. 

Anyway, we took a short bus ride into town, and first we went to the Mirabell garden and schloss (palace). The palace is listed as a cultural heritage monument, was built in 1606 and was used mainly as a pleasure palace. Today the municipal government is located in this palace. There is a wondrous set of gardens here with symmetrical design and an emphasis on mythology including the Pegasus Fountain and lots of other fountains, hedges, and themed gardens.

In the distance we could see the Mozart University, which brings us to our next destination - Mozart’s residence in Makrtplatz. This was the former residence of the Mozart family from 1773-1780. The building was reconstructed as closely as possible to the original design after its destruction during WW II and is now open as a museum.

Then we walked across a bridge, and I could see the hills in the distance. I had to stop myself from singing “The Hills Are Alive...” at the top of my lungs 😁. 

After the bridge we went to Altese Rathaus- the Old Town Hall. The Rathausin Salzburg is a four storey medieval building with natural stone on the outside and some stucco work around the windows. The house was originally a burgher house, dating back to the 14th century. In 1407, the city council purchased it and started to use it as a court - both for the community′s government and as a court of justice, as indicated by the Justitia statue above the entrance. The tower of the Rathausused to have night watchmen, and its clock and bell tower provided a reference for time (the clockwork is probably the oldest in all of Austria).

Europe 2019 - Day 49 (Part 3)

24 June 2019, Monday

The Wittlesbachs continued to rule until 1919, when the Communists usurped power and turned Bavaria into the world’s second socialist republic after the USSR. This, however, only lasted a few months and in the 1920’s, Munich became the base for right-wingers such as Adolf Hitler. Munich became his “capital of the movement”. Today Bavarians are the minority here. Munich has a roaring economy and is home to corporations like Siemens and BMW. 

The restaurant recommended by our hostess was in Marienplatz, a central square in the city centre. It has been the city's main square since 1158, more than 450 years. Marienplatz (or Mary’s Square in English) was named after the Mariensäule, a column featuring the Virgin Mary at the top and erected in its centre in 1638 to celebrate the end of Swedish occupation. Beneath, the lion, basilisk, dragon and snake symbolise the struggle against the plagues of mankind: war, plague, hunger and disbelief. Today the Marienplatz is dominated by the New City Hall (Neues Rathaus) on the north side, and the Old City Hall (Altes Rathaus, a reconstructed gothic council hall with a ballroom and tower) on the east side.

In the Middle Ages, markets and tournaments were held in this city square. It used to be called Markth(market), Schranne(grain market) and later Schrannenplatz(grain market square). Later the grain market was moved into the modern glass-and-iron Schranne near "Blumenstrasse" in 1853, and the square received its new name, starting 9 October 1854. We ate at one of the restaurants here recommended by our hostess. I had grilled sausages with potato salad (a typical Bavarian dish) and the local draft beer which was Augustiner beer from the wooden keg.

Nearby I saw a famous church known as the Frauenkirche or the 'Cathedral of Our Dear Lady' or the Munich Cathedral. It serves as the cathedral of the Archdiocese of Munich and Freising and is the seat of its Archbishop. It’s brief history: a Romanesque church was added adjacent to the town's first ring of walls in the 12th century, replacing a former late romanesque building. This new church served as a second city parish following the older, Alter Peter church. 

The late Gothic building visible today, commission of Duke Sigismund and the people of Munich, was erected in the 15th century. It is a landmark and is considered a symbol of the Bavarian capital city. Although construction of the church started in 1468 under the reign of the Wittelsbachs, the two towers of the church (98 metres tall) were only completed in 1525. It is said to hold a standing congregation of 20,000.

After dinner we took the tram back and walked about 650 metres in the dusk and guess what. There were fireflies out in the dark, sparkling away while flying. It felt a bit magical.

Europe 2019 - Day 49 (Part 2)

24 June 2019, Monday

We also passed the Imperial Palace of Vienna - it once served as the residence of the Habsburgs. The Habsburg Empire was a multi-ethnic and multi-religious empire that had a strong political, administrative, social and economic impact on territories that include part of today’s Austria and Hungary as well as other Central and South-Eastern European states.

Other buildings we passed were the Museum Quartier which houses most of the important museums such as the Art History Museum, the Natural History Museum and the Leopold Museum. They are all situated in what was once the Hapsburgian Imperial stables of all places! We saw a monument of what looked like a Queen, a monument of a soldier, the Salesian Church and the Christ Church, an Anglican Church in Vienna. Then finally to our actual destination which was the Church of St Nicholas, a Russian Orthodox Church with the same colourful mosque-like domes typical of Russian churches - I love the design, I can’t get enough of it. So colourful and pretty! 

Lastly, we went to the Belvedere complex which consists of Upper and Lower Belvedere, landscaped gardens, fountains, an orangery and dainty walking paths. It used to be the summer residence for Austrian princes in the 1600’s. The two palaces themselves feature amazing architecture and stand out royally in the gardens – Upper Belvedere has a detailed façade with green domed semi-towers while Lower Belvedere has a simpler design; both palaces face the stunning gardens in between, in opposing directions.

And then we were done with Vienna and we headed back to our hotel far, far away (I exaggerate, of course). The trains and trams here move very roughly so that even if one is seated one doesn’t feel completely safe - you could still lose your balance if you’re not holding on tightly to the hand rails. Phew!

At the hotel I finished my “typical Austrian noodles with bacon baked in cheese” with coffee, and then we headed out to the bus station to take the bus to Munich. Our trip is coming to an end! Mixed emotions all around - happy to go home and yet sad that my adventure is coming to an end. I like living from day to day like this and yet I miss the routine of everyday life back home. Sigh.

We arrived in Munich at about 6.30 p.m. and made our way to the AirB&B. We tried to book rooms in the same hostel that we would be staying in on 26 June 2019, but it was all full. In fact many of the hostels were fully booked around this time not sure for what reason, so in the end we had to stay at an AirB&B. It was really nice though a bit of a walk from the nearest tram station. Very cosy and welcoming, and our hostess was really very sweet and accommodating. She gave us some suggestions on where to go for food, so after we put our bags down we headed out to look for food.

Munich or Munchen means the city of monks. It was founded in 1158 and soon became the residence of the Wittelsbachs. They destroyed the only Isar bridge nearby at Freising and built their own here, re-routing the salt trade through Munich and quickly becoming rich. In the war against the Turks, during the siege of Vienna, Duke Max Emanuel of Bavaria managed to capture Belgrade in 1688. Unfortunately in another war (the Spanish Succession War), Max lost and his ambitions, as well as Bavaria itself, were in ruin. 

Europe 2019 - Day 49 (Part 1)

24 June 2019, Monday

After a nice hot shower yesterday to wash away the rain and all other unnecessary things, and a good night’s sleep in a comfortable bed, we woke up early to finish the sights in Vienna before checking out. 

First we went to see the Church of the Teutonic Knights. This is a Gothic Church and is the mother church of the Teutonic Order, a German-based Roman Catholic religious order formed at the end of the 12th century. It is the current seat of the Grand Master of the Order. Nearby was the Evangelist Church, built in 1783-84.

Next, to Michaelerplatz. There were some ruins preserved here from the time of the Romans until the late 19th century. They were uncovered during 1990/91 during archaeological excavations. It includes remainders of settlement outside the Roman legionary fortress, i.e. the Renaissance period walls. Here we saw St Michael’s Church. The oldest part of this Church was built in the 13th century, rebuilding and additions were made in 1793, and there are catacombs underneath the church - burials were until 1783. It is one of the oldest churches in Vienna, and also one of the few remaining Romanesque buildings. It is dedicated to the Archangel Michael. It used to be the parish church of the Imperial Court. Its present-day aspect has been unchanged since 1792.

Nearby was the Hofburg, built probably in the 13th century. It used to serve as the main winter palace for the rulers of the Austro-Hungarian Empire (the Habsburgs) for hundreds of years. Then on 8 November 1945, it was used as the Soviet Army’s officers’ house, and offered a range of leisure time activities to Soviet officers and their families, such as operas, concerts, dancing etc. However, there were always political-ideological motivation behind those events. They had this place all to themselves because apparently the Soviets would rather stay among themselves. Today the complex is home to offices of the president of Austria and serves as a presidential base.

Here we also passed the Spanish riding school, it is a tourist attraction I’m not sure why. It wasn’t even on our list of things to see but we just happened to pass it. It was built during the Habsburg Monarchy and has stood ever since, and is responsible for training horses for classical dressage (whatever that is), a long-standing renowned tradition in Austria, for hundreds of years.

On the way to our next destination we passed the Sisi Museum and a monument of Francis II, the Holy Roman Emperor (then Emperor of Austria), Apostolic King of Hungary, King of Bohemia etc. (reigned 1792-1835). The statue was erected in 1846. The inscription, amorem meum populis meis, means "[I give] my love to my people"; it's a quotation from the emperor's testament. This sweet thought didn't help his memory much, for he is remembered mostly for the serial defeats (and humiliations) at the hands of Napoleon. 

Europe 2019 - Day 48 (Part 3)

23 June 2019, Sunday

Then we went to the Votive Church (also under renovation 🙄) which is built in neo-Gothic design. Following the attempted assassination of Emperor Franz Joseph in 1853, the Emperor's brother Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian inaugurated a campaign to create a church to thank God for saving the Emperor's life. Funds for construction were solicited from throughout the Empire. The church was dedicated in 1879 on the silver anniversary of Emperor Franz Joseph and his wife Empress Elisabeth.

Then we walked to the Sigmund Freud museum - because he’s Austrian and I read his book the Interpretation of Dreams which I didn’t like but still. His name is synonymous with psychology and psychology is one of my pet peeves so I had to go see the museum.

Then to the State Opera which was first constructed in 1869. The original Vienna State Opera House was almost totally destroyed – save for its Tea Salon, the Schwind Foyer, its main façade, and the grand staircase – by Allied bombing during WW II. It was then rebuilt in a Neo-Renaissance style and reopened in 1955 with a performance of Beethoven’s Fidelio. It looked like a palace, and is said to be one of the finest Opera Houses in the world. Opera is really a thing here in Vienna. (Un)fortunately it’s not my thing.

Then to St Charles’  Church, a baroque Roman Catholic church. It is widely considered as the most outstanding baroque church in Vienna, as well as one of the city's greatest buildings. The church is dedicated to Saint Charles Borromeo, one of the great counter-reformers of the 16th century. Constrction began in 1713 and the church was completed in 1737. The church originally possessed a direct line of sight to the Hofburg and was also, until 1918, the Imperial patron parish church.

Lastly, we saw the Mozart monument. As my piano teachers used to say, I play the piano like a bull or an elephant which makes me more of a Beethoven or Bach person but still! I played Mozart so I can relate and of course it’s exciting to be in the country he was born in.  

Then we decided to call it a day as it was quite late. We still had some interesting things to see so we decided to wake up early tomorrow and tackle the remaining places. 

On the train back to the hostel, there was a ticket collector asking to see tickets. I showed him my ticket and no problem. There was a boy who tried to exit the train at the next stop (I guess he didn’t have a ticket) but he was seen in time by the ticket collector who accosted him and took his photo with his handphone. They got down at the next stop and the boy casually tried to walk away but the ticket collector held on to his clothes. I don’t know what happened next but yikes! Luckily we always had tickets. 

Europe 2019 - Day 48 (Part 2)

23 June 2019, Sunday

In my zombie-like state we first went to Tiergarten Schonbrunn, to see the Schlöss (palace), probably the most iconic building that represents Vienna today. It has been around since the 1600’s and has 1,441 rooms. The Habsburgs have held residence here for many years and emperors of Austria have been born in the palace too.

The palace itself is an immense building and designed in a Baroque style with a symmetrical main building that has hundreds of windows and statues on the rooftop.

Inside the palace are an assortment of rooms all fully furnished and decorated in the original style.

We also walked around the gardens at Schonbrunn Palace Complex, which had lush greenery, a maze and labyrinth, fountains, landscaped lawns, etc. I took a picture of the entrance to the Imperial Zoo also known as the Tiergarten Schonbrunn. This is  the oldest zoo in the world located within the grounds of the Sconbrunn Palace. Originally it was built as a menagerie.

Then it started to rain! Actually it poured! And I under-estimated Vienna. Most of the other cities in Europe had all of the tourists attractions within walking distance and easily accessible by public transport. But in Vienna, everything was quite far apart so it took us some time to get from one place to another. What with the weather and my sloth-like movements, I was not optimistic of finishing all the touristy stuff by today.

Nevertheless, we soldiered on and went to St Stephen Basilica, which was built in the 12th century. It is the most prominent religious building in Vienna, and just beautiful inside and out. It has the tallest church tower in Austria. 

As it was still raining, we decided to go eat instead. I tried what was written in the menu as “typical Austrian noodles with bacon baked with cheese”. It was nice (it was not actually noodles but some kind of pasta and of course, bland for my Indian tongue but overall not bad) and as hungry as I was, I couldn’t finish it and had to pack the rest for tomorrow.

After eating we went to see the Parliament building, but unfortunately it was

under construction. Then the Town Hall or Rathauswhich was constructed in the 1800’s in a Neo-Gothic style to accommodate the offices of the mayor for an ever increasing city population. It has five towers, the middle of which is the largest and is topped by the iconic Rathausman statue. We also managed to see the National Theatre, the Vienna University and the Court House.

Europe 2019 - Day 48 (Part 1)

23 June 2019, Sunday

Only 3 hours of sleep. Woke up at 5 a.m. as we had to take the bus at 7 a.m. to Vienna. Had breakfast somewhere near the bus station but I couldn’t eat much as I was having a hangover, still half asleep, head in the clouds and feeling pain all over, but all in a good way. It’s a 5 hour ride to Vienna and I slept the entire journey 😁.

So, a little bit about Austria. Today's Austria is what was once the German speaking core and centre of power for the large multi-ethnic Austro-Hungarian Empire with its imperial capital in Vienna. This empire stretched eastwards from present-day Austria through much of east-central and south-central Europe, including the entire territories of modern day Hungary, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia, and portions of Serbia, Romania, Ukraine, Poland and Italy.

The modern republic of Austria came into being in 1918 as a result of its defeat in WW I. In its wake, the empire was split into many components. Following an unresisted invasion and annexation by Nazi Germany in 1938, Austria more or less functioned as a part of Nazi Germany during WW II. Thus, a large proportion of the population supported Hitler and Austria's incorporation into Germany. It was not until the end of the war that the mood changed and Austria tried to distance itself from Germany. 

In 1945, Austria was divided into zones of occupation like Germany. However, unlike Germany, Austria was not subject to any further territorial losses. A treaty signed in 1955 ended the Allied and Soviet occupation, recognized Austria's independence, and forbade future unification with Germany. A constitutional law of that same year declared the country's "perpetual neutrality", a condition for Soviet military withdrawal, and thus saved Austria from Germany's fate of a divided nation with a divided capital.

We arrived in Vienna and went to our hotel which was unfortunately quite far away. It is not cheap to stay in Vienna, and this time I managed to convince my friend to stay in a hotel which was reasonably cheap as it was some distance away from the city centre. For me, I’d rather pay a bit extra and get fresh towels and a hair dryer in a comfortable room, rather than a bed in a dorm.

Anyway, after checking in I was still feeling like a zombie and I think my friend realised that I was off and asked me what happened and I told her the edited version 😁.