Fraser's Hill

Sunday, 2 October 2016

Because Philip refuses to pay the government any more money than absolutely necessary, and because Philip has an in-built GPS system (his nose), we took the trunk road to Fraser’s Hill. From Petaling Jaya – Kuala Lumpur – Selayang – Rawang – Sungai Choh – Serendah -  Antara Gapi – Batang Kali – Kuala Kubu Baru – Gap – Fraser’s Hill.

I read on the internet that from the Gap, there was only one way up and down Fraser’s Hill and to ease the traffic, odd hours are for going up and even hours are for coming down. However, this has changed. Now there is one way up, and another altogether different way down, going behind Fraser’s Hill.

From the Gap to Fraser’s Hill is about 8 km distance. The base of the Gap road is about 800 m high. The roads are really narrow and really windy, with almost zero visibility of oncoming cars. Thank God I wasn’t driving as I would probably need 5 hours to go up and 4 hours to come back down, much to the annoyance of the people unfortunate enough to be stuck behind my car.

At the Gap there was a dilapidated looking building which Appa said used to be a colonial residence converted into a famous guest house operated by the government. It was closed for refurbishment but it was never completed and remains close till today. This is quite sad.

Being a creature of the sun, I brought a jacket with me. I didn’t need it. It wasn’t cold at all. I remember it being extremely cold when I was there more than 30 years ago. I’ve no idea what happened.

Fraser's Hill is situated in the Titiwangsa mountain range in the beautiful state of Pahang. I say that because I’m from Pahang, of course. It has an average altitude of 1,200 m high but its highest point rises to about 1,524 m at the Telekoms bungalow.

It is named after Louis James Fraser, a Scotsman who prospected for gold in Australia but eventually struck tin here instead in the 1890s. Employing Chinese miners to do the hard work for him and earning his keep by operating mule trains down the steep mountain track (Gap road today) to Raub town for trade. Eventually, Fraser himself moved up the hill and set up opium and gambling dens to increase his profits. Sometime around 1915, he vanished just as the tin deposits dried up and people started moving away. His mysterious disappearance remains unsolved till to date. We tried to solve this mystery but unfortunately were unable to uncover any clues.

In 1917 the place was rediscovered and there were plans to develop it into a hill station. A local man said that the first building was a house built in 1919, and is now the police station / post office. This was in town but we left the town for last.

First we went to Allan’s water, which used to be a dam built by F.H. Allan an architect, and then made into a reservoir, and is now finally a recreational lake with lots of fishes to feed and paddle boats. Just beside this was a vegetable farm that looked newly opened. Here you get to literally pick your vegetables from the ground or pluck it from the plant and buy it – tomatoes, sweet potatoes, cauliflower, radish, and various leafy greens. I bought cherry tomatoes, sweet potatoes and a pretty flower plant for Amma but not sure if she will like it, my parents don’t seem to like anything I give them. But I digress.

Then we drove past various bungalows, there were bungalows belonging to Telekom, TNB, Bank Negara, Bank Pertanian etc I think these were holiday destinations that could be booked by the staff of these respective establishments and inhabited for free. This is just a guess. Other bungalows were Rompin, Cicely, Abu Suradi, The Cottage. And various resorts as well.

We stopped to see this one resort called Ye Olde Smokehouse because the name sounded exquisite to me. I read that this was a building built in 1924 with the help of the Red Cross Society for the British soldiers who fought in World War 1 (1914-1918), and their dependents. It was quite a nice place and I would consider staying here if this was an overnight trip. But it wasn’t.

Next was the Jeriau waterfall. It was about a 15 minute trek from the main entrance to the waterfall, and it turned out to be a disappointment. Philip said his shower was more impressive than the Jeriau waterfall. This hurt the waterfall’s feelings. I bought soap bubbles and blew bubbles and felt like a kid again or like Spongebob Squarepants. When no one was looking, of course.

Then to town for lunch. Normal Malaysian food. Then to the Paddock for horse riding (which we didn’t do) and archery (which Philip did but his arrows kept hitting the target of the man next to him). Robin Hood he is certainly not. Hilarious. Right opposite the Paddock was the Fraser’s Hill Golf Course. These were the only 2 things that I remember in Fraser’s Hill when I was last there more than 30 years ago. Then with my parents. Now with Philip.

Finally a walk around the town. The police station, formerly a colonial house, the post office, Puncak Inn Hotel, some kind of bird centre, sports complex and of course the famous clock tower. We had the ugliest coffee and milo in what looks like a former colonial house converted into an “Eating House” (literally that is what was written on it).

And then we were done with Fraser’s Hill!