Phnom Penh - Day 2 (Part 3)

 2 May 2025

After lunch we went to the last sight of the day – the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, housed in what was once a high school. It was transformed into Security Prison 21 (S-21) by the Khmer Rouge and became the regime’s most notorious interrogation and torture centre. Of the estimated 17,000 people imprisoned there, only a handful survived. The museum preserves the prison in its raw state – rusting bed frames, blood-stained floors, rows of mugshots documenting each prisoner’s final days, the original place where people were hanged, the barbed wires.

The Khmer Rouge was finally ousted in 1979 with the help of Vietnamese forces, who installed a new government that ruled with Soviet support until the USSR collapsed. Following a period of international isolation and civil unrest, Cambodia was placed under UN administration from 1991 to 1993, culminating in its first democratic elections. Though King Norodom Sihanouk’s son won the initial vote, political tensions remained, and power shifted back to the Cambodian People’s Party (CPP), formerly part of the Vietnamese-backed regime which remains dominant today.

Here I bought a book about the Khmer Rouge, and met a survivor who was only kept alive because he was a mechanic by training and knew how to repair typewriters which the Khmer Rouge needed to document the history of all those imprisoned, tortured and killed.

I came back to my hotel feeling very disturbed and gave a suggestion to my guide – that the Killing Fields and the Genocidal Museum be visited first, followed by all the other monuments, royal palace and Wat Phnom, so that sadness is not the last thing on your mind when you return to your hotel. He smiled a sad smile and said he will consider it. We’ll see.

Back at the hotel, it was still pretty early (4.00 pm) so I sat in the dining area, ordered some local beer (Angkor beer) and started reading the book about the Khmer Rouge. The hotel employees were for sure fascinated that I took an interest in their country and volunteered much personal information: one about how his grandmother, with his father as a baby tied to her back, fled the Khmer Rouge and lived in the jungle for years surviving on whatever she could find in the jungle for food and shelter. Another: about how the current political party is still aligned with communist Vietnam and so they cannot openly criticise the government or the King lest they be thrown in jail.

I was informed (in hushed tones) that there was a general election in 2013, where the CPP were losing but suddenly, their television screen went blank for hours, and then when it came on again, miraculously the CPP won; and this led to street protests which were quickly abated and now (my impression) they are all living under silent protest at the government of the day.

I really enjoyed talking with the locals. This is always the highlight of my travels, to hear from the locals what they think, what they feel, their general outlook in life. For sure, they are wary about the Khmer Rouge, and they do not want communism, but are unsure how to go about it. I can totally understand; although there has been a change in government in Malaysia recently, before that, there were also news of ‘blackouts’ and the ruling government suddenly winning after taking into account postal, military and overseas ballots. But it could only last for so long, and eventually democracy did win. Or did it? Remains to be seen.

I also really like the Cambodians because they do not deny their heritage. They are well aware of Hindu and Buddhist influences in their country, and unlike the country I live in, they do not deny it; rather they embrace it as being part of their history and therefore, part of their culture.

At times like these I am reminded of George Orwell’s Animal Farm, which was true then as it is true now – eventually the pigs look like humans. Eventually all those who are in power become their predecessors, the very people they sought to oust. It’s movements like the Khmer Rouge that give communism a bad name. This was not what was envisioned by the likes of Karl Marx, Friedrich Engles, Emile Durkheim, Fidel Castro, Che Guevara and Ho Chi Minh. The Khmer Rouge, and present day China, Russia and Vietnam have strayed from the original teachings. Which gives communism a bad name, which in its original form, I still argue, is good.

From Auschwitz to Phnom Penh, I see the evil that humans can inflict on their own kind. Only humans. No animal will intentionally torture another animal. And we are supposed to be at the forefront of all living things? I think we humans fall short of many ethical practices of the animal world which begs the question, what makes us so special? That by evolution we have a brain, sentience? And what good has that done for us so far?

Remind me to go to a happier place next time to soothe my soul. Somewhere with lots of animals and plants, hopefully.

Phnom Penh - Day 2 (Part 2)

2 May 2025

From the hustle and bustle of town, we then drove for about ½ an hour away, to one of many killing fields that existed during the Khmer Rouge regime from 1975-1979. There were many killing fields situated throughout Cambodia, but the one we visited was the biggest.

The Khmer Rouge killed nearly two million people between 1975 and 1979. The roots of the tragedy can be traced back to the 1960s when Cambodia was ruled by King Norodom Sihanouk. In an attempt to shield the country from the growing influence of Thailand and Vietnam, he invited the French to play a protective role. During the colonial period, many Cambodian students received scholarships to study in France. There, a number of them (including Saloth Sar, who would later become Pol Pot) were introduced to communist ideology and began secretly criticising the Cambodian monarchy and its alignment with Western powers.

As their writings caught the attention of foreign intelligence services, some of these students fled back to Southeast Asia, disappearing into the jungles and joining the Kampuchean Revolutionary Party, a local offshoot of the Indo-Chinese Communist Party with strong ties to Vietnam. Eventually, they evolved into the Kampuchea Workers’ Party, increasingly aligning with Chinese-style communism.

By this time, Cambodian political factions had fractured into three ideological camps:

• Red Khmer (communists, later known as the Khmer Rouge)
• White Khmer (Western-oriented, especially pro-American)
• Blue Khmer (monarchists loyal to the king)

Following the French withdrawal and during the height of the Cold War, Cambodia tried to maintain neutrality. But in 1965, the CIA discovered that King Sihanouk had been supporting North Vietnam against the American-backed South. In retaliation, the U.S. severed diplomatic ties and began bombing operations along Cambodia’s borders.

Discontent grew. In 1970, while Sihanouk was abroad, General Lon Nol staged a coup and established the Khmer Republic, turning Cambodia into a pro-Western, anti-communist state. In response, Sihanouk allied with China and joined forces with the Khmer Rouge, led by Pol Pot, to resist American influence.

When the U.S. pulled out of Vietnam in 1973 and Lon Nol’s regime became mired in corruption, the Khmer Rouge capitalized on the chaos. By 1975, they had seized Phnom Penh. King Sihanouk was allowed to return but was soon arrested as Pol Pot moved to consolidate absolute power.

What followed was one of the most brutal genocides of the 20^th century. The Khmer Rouge sought to eliminate all perceived enemies, including intellectuals, professionals, religious figures, and even those wearing glasses, under the belief that only a radical agrarian society could achieve true equality.

The most infamous execution site is the Choeung Ek Killing Fields (the one I visited), one of an estimated 1,000 mass graves scattered across the country. Here, thousands of men, women, and children were executed and buried in shallow pits. A haunting stupa filled with human skulls now stands as a memorial.

I did not feel good after leaving the Killing Fields; I just felt an overwhelming sense of sadness of what my fellow humans are capable of.

In this quiet reflection we headed back to town to have lunch and I had something called ‘Fish Amuk’ which is something like our otak-otak. The fish comes from the Mekong river. Cambodian food is pretty similar to Malaysian food, with different spices used so slightly different taste but the same rice, vegetable and a protein. Some can be quite spicy due to the use of cili padi. Not much different from home, really.

Phnom Penh - Day 2 (Part 1)

2 May 2025

Today is a busy day! Woke up at 5, coffee, shower and then down for breakfast at 7.

I booked a whole day tour around the city today which started at 7.45 am. It turned out that I was the only tourist on this tour, as no one else booked the tour for today, and my guide was kind enough not to cancel it. So it was sort of like a private tour, which suited me just fine!

First destination: Wat Phnom which literally means ‘mountainous pagoda’. According to legend, in 1372, there was once a wealthy old lady known as Madam Penh, who lived near the bank of the confluence of the four (three rivers). One day she found four Buddha statues, and one of Vishnu. The belief is only sacred people are ‘chosen’ to find religious relics. Madam Penh then asked some of the villagers to build an artificial hill and build a small wooden temple on top of the hill to house the statues. She invited monks to bless the statues and the monks named the hermitage Wat Phnom which is ‘wat’ it is known to this day. 😊

We walked around the whole complex; there were many beautiful paintings on the walls, which I guessed (correctly) to be Cambodia’s version of the Ramayana. There is a stupa at the complex containing the ashes of a former King of Cambodia. My guide informed me that most Cambodians are khmers, which is a distinct race with DNA most similar to Polynesians. He was quite firm in informing me that they were NOT Chinese, like most Vietnamese and Thais. I got the impression that Cambodians do not like Vietnam and Thailand for various geo-political and ideological reasons – Thailand because of territorial disputes, and Vietnam because they seek to spread communism.

There was a shrine dedicated to Madam Penh, but the most interesting shrine was in a room that contained a statue of Buddha made of pure gold, another statue made of emerald, and the floors made of pure silver. No videos or pictures were allowed here, and I mentioned to my guide that this would be a perfect place for a modern-day heist (me and my imagination – roll eyes). He was not amused.

Second destination: the Royal Palace. Cambodia still has a King (a constitutional monarch) whose powers are more symbolic than anything else. Supposed to be the same in Malaysia but that’s a story for another day. The King still resides here, but other parts of the palace not in use are opened for the public daily as a tourist destination. The main elements of the palace which I saw were the Throne Hall, which contains the three main royal thrones and is the place kings are crowned and where foreign ambassadors are received; the Napoleon Pavilion, which King Norodom used as a reception hall and is today a museum; the Phochani Pavilion, a banqueting hall; the Chan Chhaya or Moonlight Pavilion on the northeast section of the wall, used for state banquets and dance performances; and the Damnak Chan behind the Napoleon Pavilion, an administrative building. Across the road from the Moonlight Pavilion is a building which, as informed by the guide, used to be the place where an elephant was to be brought for the King to mount either for battle or for royal processions. How cool was that, but not so cool for the poor elephants, I’m sure.

 

Third destination: Monument of friendship between Cambodia and Vietnam. This monument commemorates the alliance between Vietnam and Cambodia, particularly the Vietnamese intervention in 1979 to overthrow the Khmer Rouge regime. It's a prominent concrete monument located in Botum Park near the city centre, featuring a gold-topped tower and statues of soldiers and a Khmer woman and child.

Next, the Constitution Monument in Phnom Penh which celebrates the 1993 Constitution of the Kingdom of Cambodia. It features a unique design, combining Greco-Roman and ancient Khmer architectural styles, and stands at 23.4 meters tall, weighing 112.9 tonnes.  Across the Constitution monument, built in the centre of a roundabout, is the Independence Monument built in 1958 to memorialise Cambodia's independence from France in 1953. It is in the form of a lotus-shaped stupa, and stands at 37 metres tall.

The last monument for the day was the Monument of Norodom Sihanouk, a monument commemorating the former King Norodom Sihanouk. The bronze statue is 4.5 meters tall and is housed under a 27 meter high stupa. King Norodom Sihanouk died on 15 October 2012 in Beijing, China, and is survived by his son, the current King Norodom Sihamoni. The statue is dedicated to Sihanouk's accomplishment on liberating the country on 9 November 1953 from French colonialism. He is a revered King due to economic rejuvenation in Cambodia in the 1960s. From 1941-1954, he abdicated the throne to his father because he wanted to get involved in politics. He was arrested by Pol Pot and put under house arrest in the Royal Palace.

In 1991, the United Nations came to restore damaged property, develop, and help to run the economy and administration in Cambodia. They were the ones who introduced the dollar into Cambodia’s economy so that everything has a dollar price, together with the local currency which is Cambodian riels. From this monument, you can actually see the other two monuments (the Independence Monument and the Constitution Monument) which makes for a good photograph.

Phnom Penh - Day 1

 1 May 2025 - Labour Day

Work has been taking a mental and emotional toll on me lately. In addition to work overload, I’ve had to deal with irresponsible and lazy people not doing their part, thereby further increasing my already full plate. If only everyone would just do their own damn jobs, I think the world would be somehow just a little bit brighter.

I felt suffocated, and so on a whim decided to book myself a trip to Phnom Penh. A short trip, somewhere nearby, with some activities but plenty of nothing in between as well. The most important decision that I made was not to bring my laptop. If I had a choice, I would leave my mobile phone behind as well. Unfortunately, it contained certain booking information so one evil was with me.

My lovely Garmin watch, which had served me going on 10 years now, decided to give way at the airport and broke into two separate pieces. I had an idea of how to fix it temporarily, but I would have to get a new one once I’m back.

So anyway, I got to Phnom Penh alright. The last time I was in Cambodia was almost 20 years ago (how time really flies) we went to Siem Reap and climbed all the temples there was to climb there! I’m so glad I went to places when I did, as I do not think I can do many adventurous things now with my knee giving way 🙄.

They still have tuk tuks and I took one from the airport to the hotel. People here drive on the right (wrong) side of the road. I saw a white Mustang 😍. I do not think I would be able to drive in Cambodia. Not a traffic light in sight, and the people here seem to be operating under some unspoken understanding on when to stop and for whom. The tuk tuk is open and sometimes vehicles are a mere two centimetres away. Too close for my comfort, yikes!

And then, would you believe it, I just chilled in my room, reading the novel I brought along with me. Ordinarily I would walk around, get a feel of the place, see things, snap a few pictures, but this time I really just chilled and did nothing.

Except answer bloody WhatsApp messages from people who do not seem to understand the meaning of a Public Holiday.

I repaired my watch temporarily by using band aid I always bring with me now whenever I travel, due to a disaster that occurred in Laos some time ago.

4.20 pm I was picked up by a tuk tuk to go on a sunset cruise along the Mekong  river. There was free flow of local beer named Krud which came as a pleasant surprise as I wasn’t aware that it was included in the price 😊 We watched the sunset, beer in hand, while cruising along the Mekong. At some point, the river merged with two other waterways, and it looked as if there were four rivers meeting but in reality there were only three – the Mekong, Tonle Sap, and Bassac (also known as the Phnom Penh river).

The Tonle Sap is the biggest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia, and at some point it merges with the Mekong river, the fourth longest river in the world flowing through six countries - starting in China (Tibet, I think) down to Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and finally Vietnam, where it meets the sea.

Saw many interesting landmarks along the way including the Royal Palace, the biggest and tallest hotel in Cambodia, and a casino. Then took a grab (they have it here and tuk tuk is on the list - makes my life so much easier! 😊) shower, continued reading my novel and sleep.

Apart from the horrid work related WhatsApp messages, this was a nice relaxing day. I wish I had more of these.

Books read in 2024

 I totally forgot to list the books I read in 2024. This is the list: 

Books read – 2024

1.           Natural Wonders of the World (Penguin Random House publishers)

2.           Introducing Artificial Intelligence: A Graphic Guide – Henry Bright & Howard Selina

3.           Into the Water – Paula Hawkins

4.           Introducing Time: A Graphic Guide – Craig Calender & Ralph Edney

5.           The 13^th Girl – Sarah Goodwin

6.           My Husband’s Murder – Katie Lowe

7.           I Know What You’ve Done – Dorothy Koomson

8.           The Musa Dilemma – K. Das

9.           Which I Have Loved – Ruth Ho

10.        Sur Petition – Edward De Bono

11.        The Idea of Politics – Maurice Duverger

12.        The Haunting of Hill House – Shirley Jackson

13.        All Her Secrets – Jane Shemilt

14.        This Book Will Make You Think – Alain Stephen

15.        Just Another Missing Person – Gillian McAllister

16.        The Idea of Politics – Maurice Duverger

17.        Malaysia’s 14^th General Election: The Big Issues – Kua Kia Soong

18.        The Dash – Linda Ellis & Mac Anderson

19.        K. Das & The Tunku Tapes – Kua Kia Soong

20.        Kartun Anti Racism - Zunar

 

The list is getting shorter and shorter, I am well aware. In my defence, it's not that I'm not reading books, I'm reading lots, just not books - mostly articles and news reports, for purposes of writing articles for work. 

One of my students casually remarked that he is lazy to read novels due to the amount of law related stuff that he has to read on a daily basis. I cannot disagree. After all the reading of non-book stuff, all you want to do sometimes is to 'cleanse' your eyes of words and do something totally different like watching nonsense stuff on tv. 

It sometimes helps the eyes. Not to mention, the MIND. Sometimes nonsense is all the mind needs.